K.R.Wilson box refinishing

KiWinUS

Well-known member
I have several KR Wilson tools in wooden boxes including distributor timing tools , what can I put on the wood to make it look nice & original. I do not want to over restore just look nice
Thanks
 
model T spokes we treat with a 50/50 mix of turpentine and linseed oil. it will darken the wood a slight bit, but soaks in good. takes a day or two to dry
 
If you are or know someone who is a wood worker, try the "Good Stuff". You will need to go to a real lumber yard or wood working store to find it. I've never seen it at the big box stores. It's an oil based polyresin that leaves a satin finish. Just clean your surfaces and wipe it on with a clean rag. cleans up with mineral spirits. I have used this many times in the refinishing of antique furniture and swear by it. Sounds like just the thing for your project. good luck.
 

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I used WATCO Teak Oil on the bed of the truck. It shows the color and grain of the wood without the over restored look of varnish or polyurethane. It will darken as it ages leaving a nice "used" look patina.
 

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I have several KR Wilson tools in wooden boxes including distributor timing tools , what can I put on the wood to make it look nice & original. I do not want to over restore just look nice
Thanks
Hi KiWinUS; You might try some small areas on the bottom of a box if you want to try some different finishes. Good luck, Craig.
 
Linseed oil is great. It will take sometime to dry. But it'll soak in to the wood well and it will look natural to the age.


Clear danish oil isn't bad either.
 
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if you try linseed oil, best get "boiled linseed oil" (comes ready to use), my understanding is raw linseed oil takes forever to dry. also, if you use linseed oil (normally thinned with a little terp or min spirits) wipe if off several times over the first day or two.
 
The old-time wood finishers of high-end projects used "Tongue Oil" for wood work in quality homes and on furniture. I specify it for quality restoration building projects. Not sold everywhere, I found it in my local Ace Hardware store. I used it on my antique doors that have been stripped and ultra-fine sanded. Rub on bare wood and apply at least 4 or 5 coats, (more the better) allowing each coat to soak in and air dry. When fully sealed, the wood will not accept any additional coatings and will reject water. Its a very durable and easy to clean/restore flat finish.
 
if you try linseed oil, best get "boiled linseed oil" (comes ready to use), my understanding is raw linseed oil takes forever to dry. also, if you use linseed oil (normally thinned with a little terp or min spirits) wipe if off several times over the first day or two.

Good points! If not done correctly it can leave a finish similar to honey!! :)
 
I have a number of tools from many years ago, as well as a machinist's tool box complete with a small notebook containing his notations during his career. The boxes are covered with stains from oil, dirt, and who-knows-what. I left left them just as I found them as a tribute to their history.
 
The KRWilson catalogs always say "varnished oak case". The question would be (what shade?)


My KRW cylinder plug gauge box shows it had one light coat of varnish on the inside cover lid only before the decal was installed. The rest of the inside was not varnished and of coarse the outside shows the usual darker oil staining and dirty hand coating.
 
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I prefer lacquer on my wood carvings, usually 3-4 coats flattened with 4-0 steel wool. Durable and a nice soft effect


Adam
 

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