Just a little rattle

Tiny

Tiny

Well-known member
My coupe has been down on power for a few months and has developed a weird rattle in the motor. I think I found the problem :rolleyes:

Times 3 on the exhaust seats. It amazes me that it even ran with only one functioning seat. Testament to the strength of the Model A
 
It could have been worse. I have seen more than 1 that have broke and got on top of the piston. It will leave all kinds of funny marks on the piston. It can also break the ring lands on the piston which then scores the cylinder walls.

This is the reason that I only use seats if there is no other choice.
 
Sorry about your luck Tiny. So...what will you be doing in your spare time? Jeff
 
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Thanks for the encouraging words. This motor is .100 over so it's going to have to sit in the corner and think about what it did wrong.
I went through all my running when parked motors and found one that will work for a reconditioning. It's .080 over I'm going to put new valves and springs in it. A Snyder head and a '34 cam and lifters I got from a buddy. I've already adjusted the crank with one shim left. The Babbit looks good. Also have a lightened flywheel and V8 clutch on the shelf for this one. I think I'm going just rebuild a stock trans for this car, the other car has the 5spd. This is for my touring "stock" car so I like to keep it stockish. Right now it's at the machine shop getting a honing and the seats cleaned up and the old studs extracted.
 
Tiny said:
Thanks for the encouraging words. This motor is .100 over so it's going to have to sit in the corner and think about what it did wrong.
I went through all my running when parked motors and found one that will work for a reconditioning. It's .080 over I'm going to put new valves and springs in it. A Snyder head and a '34 cam and lifters I got from a buddy. I've already adjusted the crank with one shim left. The Babbit looks good. Also have a lightened flywheel and V8 clutch on the shelf for this one. I think I'm going just rebuild a stock trans for this car, the other car has the 5spd. This is for my touring "stock" car so I like to keep it stockish. Right now it's at the machine shop getting a honing and the seats cleaned up and the old studs extracted.
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You could put a new seats in. Just find some one that knows how to do it right. You need a chamfer around the top of the insert, then roll the metal around the insert on the chamfer to hold it in. Also they have a special sealer to go on the insert.
Of course you will have to have a inserts that is over size on the OD, which they should have.
 
I have the tools to install the seats and roll the metal around the chamfer, but the 20-1625-1 seats that the vendors sell do not have a chamfer on the top. Do you grind a chamfer and how big, or does someone sell seats with a chamfer on the top?
 

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1930 coupe said:
I have the tools to install the seats and roll the metal around the chamfer, but the 20-1625-1 seats that the vendors sell do not have a chamfer on the top. Do you grind a chamfer and how big, or does someone sell seats with a chamfer on the top?
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I still have seats left from my Dads garage with the chamfer. But if I did not I would put them on a arbor in the lathe. then turn a chamfer on them. If no lathe you could hand grind them, but you would have to be good.
 
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If you had Bill Stipe make you a low lift cam, then the valve wouldn't have lifted high enough to let the seat escape. :D

When I installed seats in the 80's, I did like George said. You can grind a small chamfer on the top outer edge to roll the metal onto.
 
George Miller said:
I still have seats left from my Dads garage with the chamfer. But if I did not I would put them on a arbor in the lathe. then turn a chamfer on them. If no lathe you could hand grind them, but you would have be good.
Click to expand...

I have a lathe and a Dumore tool post grinder.
How big is the chamfer?
 

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1930 coupe said:
I have a lathe and a Dumore tool post grinder.
How big is the chamfer?
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I have not really check them, but I would say a 1/32 would do.
Maybe you can go into production and sell them. If you have never put them in before. Putting them in dry ice helps or a least in the freezer. Also make sure the cutter is square with the block. also make sure seat hole, and valve guide are all on the same center line.

Maybe you already know how. I just posted this is case you have not done any yet.
 
George Miller said:
I have not really check them, but I would say a 1/32 would do.
Maybe you can go into production and sell them. If you have never put them in before. Putting them in dry ice helps or a least in the freezer. Also make sure the cutter is square with the block. also make sure seat hole, and valve guide are all on the same center line.

Maybe you already know how. I just posted this is case you have not done any yet.
Click to expand...

I have a vintage Kwik Way, like new complete set that uses a drill motor. I have used it a couple of times but I am still learning. I have the correct pilots to hold things straight and centered.
Thanks
 
I'm sure this one can be saved, but at this point I'm just building the other motor for ease and convenience.
 
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