Jump Starting?

VeryTangled said:
I was thinking about your situations though, in neither case was rolling or pushing helpful. Have you noticed any ill effects from the trip? -VeryTangled/Jeff
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Unfortunately Saturday morning when my wife and I were trying to start Old Henry by pushing him it was up hill every way we had to push so we could never get enough speed to even try starting the engine.

There were no ill effects from the trip - only very positive ones (relaxation, feeling of accomplishment, thrill of adventure and challenge, etc.).
 
Like Richard I jump, with the 12 v car and running if needed, also you can earth to a head bolt or somewhere obscure and use that as the contact point you do get some spark damage .doing it this way you can swap earth for pose on the head bolt it doesn't matter! as you are dealing with the starter only ,no 12 volt is feeding into the dash .
 
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If I understood Chisel's point and GM's counter point you are hooking up with the batery in the circuit. If so the batery is part of the circuit meaning it is in series-think christmas lights-when one goes out a little group of them fail because the circuit is broken. If they were parralel they would stay on. One other think-back in the day when winter starting was iffy for many cars the car starter folks hit them with 24 volts to try and start them. I think that just like jumping any car you need to make sure you hook up positive to positive and negative to negative. Having said that I would hook up positive last-ground to a head bolt away from the batery.
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
Chisel, I'm pretty sure +to+\-to- equals parallel, not series. Series changes the outlet voltage, parallel Keeps it the same (-) drop!
Chuck
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Hi Chuck:
Hope this helps. A simple drawing of early Ford 6V engine circuit with all switchs open. No current flow from battery. Hook a 12V battery across a 6V battery, + to + and - to - you now have a series circuit and current flow from the 12V battery through the 6V battery. Low voltage but high current, feel not good to have battery acid on bear skin.
 

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Jeff
On your trip to Maine this summer did you see the truck pull over to the flathead race car white coupe.He plugged into front of truck and jumped started to car.
If you had a quick disconnect and mount on inner fender well.
Pos to ground on frame,
Next Neg to same kind of solinode thats on your car,and other side to starter.
Now small wire on #2 sel to push botton on dash( if you have a one wire botton need same as car)
Now you can carry 6 volt battery to front fender mounted plug/or put battery in trunk.hookup."No need to go under seat"
Now get in car turn key on and press #2 starter botton.
Now if still no start press both bottons same time.
Its the same as jumping +TO+, Neg to neg. Correctly wired to batt.
This is the safest way.
Most batt cables don,t make good contact with only 6 or more points
 
A series circuit,
As an example, consider a very simple circuit consisting of four light bulbs and one 6 V battery. If a wire joins the battery to one bulb, to the next bulb, to the next bulb, to the next bulb, then back to the battery, in one continuous loop, the bulbs are said to be in series. If each bulb is wired to the battery in a separate loop, the bulbs are said to be in parallel. If the four light bulbs are connected in series, there is same current through all of them, and the voltage drop is 1.5 V across each bulb, which may not be sufficient to make them glow. If the light bulbs are connected in parallel, the currents through the light bulbs combine to form the current in the battery, while the voltage drop is 6.0 V across each bulb and they all glow.
In a series circuit, every device must function for the circuit to be complete. One bulb burning out in a series circuit breaks the circuit. In parallel circuits, each light has its own circuit, so all but one light could be burned out, and the last one will still function.As an example,
 
Prof. Henry posted this in another thread, but I thought it was a great photo. It hadn't occurred to me to do it this way. Thanks again Prof. Henry!

-VT/Jeff
 

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Richard is 100% correct. If you buy a set of jumpers, usually they have directions. Read them. They give you proper sequence of hook up too. Voltage is not really an issue. I had a friend who worked for IBM. I asked him what he did there. He said "I have the most useless job in the world, I write directions" I never forgot that. Funny but sad.
 
Just bought a '35 and it has electrical system issues supposedly from a 12 volt jump. Been told all low power componenets i.e. lites and guages are probably fried? Just getting into it.

Not experienced enough yet, first 6 volt antique project, but it doesn't sound like a good idea for the system in general?
 
Anthony,

Just a suggestion: if you have not worked on 6v, the ground side of the system is much more critical with 6v than 12v. In particular, look carefully at the point where the positive battery terminal is connected to the frame. It was originally tied into a bolt on the U Joint cover, but it's easy to clean off a spot on the frame and tie it in there.

Look at the starter switch terminals and the connection to the starter.

Time spent making these connections clean shiny and tight will pay off.

Good Luck.
 
VeryTangled said:
Hi G.M. Thanks for helping.

Does your jump box have something like the switch on this one? Having the switch seems a good idea.

What Make/Model is yours, if it's close by?

This one has 4 gauge wire, comments anyone?

-VeryTangled/Jeff
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Tangled

Did you ever find a portable hot-shot solutions for your 6v?
 
I won't hook a 12 volt battery up to boost a 6. Heard too many stories of exploding batteries sending acid all over the place (and people). I've used 12 volts to start my Merc in the initial stages of it's resurrection when it had carburetor issues and a few stuck valves. But I by-passed the 6 volt battery. As has been said, hook up the booster cables direct to the starter side of the solenoid and ground to a head bolt. Polarity does not matter as the 12 volt will just spin the starter. I did the final connection at the 12 volt battery. All by myself. Its on youtube.
https://youtu.be/wO25Y2zgShE
 
Jeff, I would have thought that by now, after all these years, you'd have discovered that if all that prevents an old Ford from starting is a dead battery, all you need is someone to steer it and pop the clutch in second gear while you push it a few feet down the road. Call me a Chauvinist if you want, but this operation is usually more successful if the woman does the pushing!
 
VeryTangled said:
Hi Everyone!

I think I've almost had enough fun fiddling with the chassis grounds, coil, distributor, generator, wiring harnesses, lights, horn, starter, fuel sender, fuel gauge, and ammeter in our car.

I was wondering:

What are the dangers and techniques for Jump Starting an old Ford original 6v positive ground, generator equipped system with a 12v negative ground alternator equipped modern vehicle?

Is there any device that can be used to make this trick safer for the vehicles?

Do you need heavier gauge wire in the jumper cables?

Is there such thing as a 6v jump box? Reading some message boards seems to indicate they may not be. Would carrying a 6v motorcycle battery be a substitute for a similar 12v jump box?

In auto-shop, we teach to hook the fourth connection from the good negative, to chassis ground on the dead car. This hardly ever works because of poor grounding. And grounding in the 6v system is even more important, isn't it?

-VeryTangled/Jeff
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As a kid growing up in Chicago, dads model A just would not crank over to start with just 6 volts, this was in the mid 40's! He was a mechanic, he rigged up two 6 volt batteries on a cart, and then added the car battery and actually started his old model a on 12 volts. He had rigged this to allow the coil to be on 6 volts and only the starter motor connected to 12 volts! He never burnt out a bulb, and never did this unless the original starter just could not get the car started. He also shared with me the fact that using that high a voltage was a bit mechanically not a good thing as the starter motor gear really shot hard into the ring gear and could cause damage (he thought) He also pointed out to me that the ring gear on any car wears more in the compression spots on the gear. So a 4 cylinder has 4 major wear spots, a 6 cylinder, 6 spots and so on!
 
Very Tangled: I am confused. How do the photos you posted relate to your original "jump starting" question?
 
19Fordy said:
Very Tangled: I am confused. How do the photos you posted relate to your original "jump starting" question?
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Hi, They relate only because they represent things I had to learn or work through. I was trying to avoid self-induced issues when I posed the questions 5 1/2 years ago.
 
VeryTangled said:
Hi, They relate only because they represent things I had to learn or work through. I was trying to avoid self-induced issues when I posed the questions 5 1/2 years ago.
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Jeff, I remember that self induced issue happening at the CNM in Auburn, but was surprised to think that was 5-1/2 years ago. Time is flying :)
 
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