Tom F OHIO
Well-known member
Does anyone know of any place that sells a 6 volt jump box battery starter. the only ones I can find are all 12 volt. Thanks
Tom...
Tom...
Jump box
- Thread starter Tom F OHIO
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KMBeers
Senior Member
The one I have as a backup for long trips is Schumacher Electric, DSR Professional Grade 6 and 12 Volt, 125 Peak Amps, Battery Charger and Engine Starter. Available from Home Depot and other places on the web. Schumacher Model #DSR145. I bought this as a backup and thankfully never needed it for my car not starting. It will charge USB stuff, like your phone as well.
Big hammer
Well-known member
A 12 volt jump box will work on 6 volts, a jump box is a bad name , with lights off connect the jump box and let the electrons flow charging or dead battery, disconnect the box and start your car ! Same way with jumper cables connect to your batteries and with the running vehicle walk away and let the electrons flow recharging the dead battery 12 volt to 12 volt, 12 volt to 6 volt will talk a shorter time for the electrons to flow then disconnect and start the 6 volt car.
Trying to start a car with a dead battery and your jump box connected will damage your jump box, read and follow the jump box instructions !!!!
Trying to start a car with a dead battery and your jump box connected will damage your jump box, read and follow the jump box instructions !!!!
Agree, starting a 6 volt car with a 12 volt jump (either a jump box or a battery) will work just fine, just be sure to not have any lights on. (A guy in our club jumped another club member's Model A and cooked all the lights!)
I have a 12V jump box that I carry with me, I haven't had to use it on the 6V Model A but I've used it several times on 12V cars. Worked like magic every time. Mine is a NOCO GB-40, good for up to 6.0L gas and 3.0L diesel, 1000A. I got it off the river store some time ago. It also has USB ports that can be used to charge your phone, and a work light. The instructions say to leave the jump box connected while trying to start, but does acknowledge that some discharged batteries may need 30 seconds of connect time prior to starting.
Don't forget that the Model A is a 6V POSITIVE ground. So when you connect the jump box the red lead goes to the frame or engine and the black lead goes to the terminal on the starter.
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Phil Brown
Well-known member
Thats my go too methed
(if needed) Pretty easy to push an A on flat ground a few feet to start and if you really look most of the time it IS downhill a slight bit one way or the other.And help for a push in a model A never seems to be very far away
Gold Digger
Well-known member
A few years ago I was going to jump an old 48 Ford pickup with a 12 truck. When I started to unhook the jumper cables the 6 volt battery blew up in my face. Lucky I didn't get acid in my eyes. I went to the house about half necked with a few cuts from pieces of the battery and the next day I didn't have any paint on my pickup engine.
alexiskai
Well-known member
Was the 12V vehicle running at the time? Some of those alternators put out a huge amount of amps, that may have been what blew up the battery.
Tom F OHIO
Well-known member
So on a 6 volt positive ground do you stilll put the red cable on the positive and the black clamp on the neg side? I read what Jay Jay said but was not quite sure.
alexiskai
Well-known member
Yes, if you're connecting directly to the battery. JayJay was saying that it's often easier to connect the jump box directly to the starter. Black clamp goes to the terminal on the starter switch (where the battery cable also terminates), red clamp goes to a suitable ground on the chassis. This also avoids the potential for power loss due to poor connections between the battery and the starter, which is common – particularly in situations where the car isn't starting and the owner thinks the battery might be low.
Tom, sorry I didn’t make that clear. Alexiskai described it well. Bottom line: black from the jump source is always negative regardless of the polarity of the car, and red is always positive. Where you can get horsed up is that it’s good practice to connect your ground jump lead away from the battery so you don’t run the risk of igniting any battery gas (hydrogen) with the spark, and if you are not thinking you might hook up the wrong cable. With disastrous effect.
Having the cables reversed may have the same effect, essentially you are shorting out the battery and with those large cables you will run mega-amps and heat up the battery through rapid discharge.
Tom F OHIO
Well-known member
Thanks, you guys for all the responses. So now to figure out a good one to buy that will
work. I guess the higher the amp the better. It's good to know that I can buy a 12-volt box because there are plenty of them out there. Thanks Tom...
work. I guess the higher the amp the better. It's good to know that I can buy a 12-volt box because there are plenty of them out there. Thanks Tom...
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Ditto Big Hammer & JayJay!
If you have 6 VOLT Electronic Ignition and hookup the 12volt jump box with Key turned on, I think that Electronic Ignition module would be fried.
Always best to have lights OFF and Ignition switch OFF BEFORE hooking up Jump Box.
Then remove Jump Box before turning either one on.
12 volts to a 6 volt module is " Number 10, GI "!
Always best to have lights OFF and Ignition switch OFF BEFORE hooking up Jump Box.
Then remove Jump Box before turning either one on.
12 volts to a 6 volt module is " Number 10, GI "!
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Well, higher amp is better… to a point of very diminishing returns. You can get jump boxes that are intended for huge, high compression diesel engines, but having that much amperage available for a puny little low compression (relatively) Model A engine is wasted. My own experience - my 1000A box jumps modern higher-compression V8 engines just fine and shows no degradation of charge after doing so, so a Model A engine, even with a high compression head (“high” being relative to Model As, not modern engines that are typically 9:1 or higher) would register nary a blip on it. If all you are going to use it on is the Model A then you really don’t need much. On the other hand, if you plan to use it on that Peterbilt with the turbo Cat 3208 (CR around 16:1) in your driveway, ‘nother issue.
CT Jack
Well-known member
When I read the posts on this forum that have something to do with electrical connections it seems there is a continuous problem with identifying polarity. It is supprising to see the many barners that have difficulty with plus(+) and minus(-). Maybe someone can come up with a foolproof method that can help solve this problem.
katy
Well-known member
Plus(+) is positive, typically, but not always red, and mimus (-) is negative, typically, but not always black.