Juice brakes

PO51

PO51

Senior Member
I'm thinking of putting juice breaks on a modified 4 banger RPU. Are their any books or good articles on this conversion? Looking for options on where to mount the master cylinder and pedal. Keeping stock clutch pedal with mitchell synchro trans.
 
I like the battery box that is built up to incorporate the master cylinder mount but don't know a supplier at this time. Call around, start with Bert's. Note tat some of the boxes are not strong enough and flex.

Charlie Stephens
 
I put juice brakes on my speedster very pleased . I would next time just buy the full kit from MT car products . It's pricey . But in the long run it will save you a lot of time . Plus they where very helpfull .Inmy 30 roadster I have orgianal brakes . Have flathead Teds set up .
 
miff said:
I put juice brakes on my speedster very pleased . I would next time just buy the full kit from MT car products . It's pricey . But in the long run it will save you a lot of time . Plus they where very helpfull .Inmy 30 roadster I have orgianal brakes . Have flathead Teds set up .
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Total kit at MT is $3400 dollars plus shipping. Wayne.
 
If you put half as much work into your mechanicals you would have great brakes that can set all winter and not get all rusted up.
 
I agree with eagle. Replace the worn parts on the mechanicals for much cheaper and have brakes that stop a stock model a wonderfully
 
I have both types and see no advantage to the hyds. I actually prefer the Mechanical over the Hydraulics.
Terry
 
Obviously, I'm doing something very wrong as the hydraulic brakes on both of my A's neither leak or bind up due to rust. Can somebody help me here?
 
My brothers Coupe has had hydraulic brakes for 20 years now- no problems. I've had hydraulic brakes on my car for 2 years, no problems. And my car has sat more that it's been driven in the past two years.
 
eagle said:
If you put half as much work into your mechanicals you would have great brakes that can set all winter and not get all rusted up.
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160B said:
I agree 100%
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Jason in TX said:
I agree with eagle. Replace the worn parts on the mechanicals for much cheaper and have brakes that stop a stock model a wonderfully
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Terry said:
I have both types and see no advantage to the hyds. I actually prefer the Mechanical over the Hydraulics.
Terry
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Add me to the list. It's a lot of money to spend, but if it will get you on the road more then follow the links above. Several vendors sell complete kits.
 
Go with the hydraulics! There is a reason all cars use them today, they are better and require less maintenance. I've had them on my widebed since 1958. I did have one cylinder rust-up but now run silicone fluid, end of problem! I also have them on my tudor and Vicky. Mostly I made my own mounts, using a 1939 pedal assembly as a base but have used Cling's products which fit very nicely. If you drive your RPU at all, hydraulics are the way to go.
 
I have seen one well known restorer say that the Mechanicals can be locked up. Now whats a Hydraulic going to do better than that? Locked up with mechanicals or Hydraulics is still locked up. Where do you go from here? Bigger (wider) tires? Bigger drums? I don't know.
Terry
 
terry said:
i have seen one well known restorer say that the mechanicals can be locked up. Now whats a hydraulic going to do better than that? Locked up with mechanicals or hydraulics is still locked up. Where do you go from here? Bigger (wider) tires? Bigger drums? I don't know.
Terry
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abs:D
 
Why do people say "I can lock up all four wheels" locking up wheels and skidding is not in any way stopping. Once again, the best model a brakes are stock ones set up right.
 
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