Juice brakes on a Duece.

40-48 brakes are not a direct bolt on to stock deuce spindles and rear end. Different bolt pattern. Requires some work.
 
They are a direct fit on the rear.

For the master, I welded a new arm on the pedal pointing down, and made a bracket that bolted to the back side of the K member, and held the 68 Mustang master so the rod just cleared the bottom of the K.
 
If you are looking for an off the shelf kit, Early V8 garage has bolt-on (no weld) kits that include a master cylinder as well as mounting brackets. Single pot or double pot master cylinder options. Kinda pricey but thought out well.

I have one of their kits in my 34 pickup with a single pot mc which is the 39-48 ford mc.

http://www.earlyv8garage.net/
 
Go with the Early V8 Garage kit. Make sure you get the Emergency brake kit too.
It's truly bolt on kit. Also, they make a complete formed brake line kit as well.
As Krylon32 said the 32 spindles require small adapters. Early V8 Garage may be able to supply those needed parts as well.
 
Go with the Early V8 Garage kit. Make sure you get the Emergency brake kit too.
It's truly bolt on kit. Also, they make a complete formed brake line kit as well.
As Krylon32 said the 32 spindles require small adapters. Early V8 Garage may be able to supply those needed parts as well.

I have used Early V8 Garage parts on 4 32's and am very happy with their kits.

Boling Brothers make a Lincoln style Bendix backing plate that is the small bolt patter to fit 28-36 spindles. Or you can use original 39-40 Lincoln backing plates and drums, as they will bolt on early spindles. You will need to then covert to 37-41 kingpins using Torrington needle thrusts. Again, Dennis at EV8 Garage can supply that kit.
 
The attached photos show how I set up the master cylinder on my '32 roadster. I did this in 1972 but if I was doing it today I would probably use a dual master cylinder. I bolted a steel plate to the rear of the K member using mostly existing holes and extended the bracket from there. I retained the original brake and clutch pedal assembly. I relocated the battery to the right side off the car but with todays batteries there are probably other options. The original hole to fill the battery was in exactly the correct position to fill the master cylinder.

Charlie Stephens
 

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They are a direct fit on the rear.

For the master, I welded a new arm on the pedal pointing down, and made a bracket that bolted to the back side of the K member, and held the 68 Mustang master so the rod just cleared the bottom of the K.

This is what's recommended in the Bishop-Tardel book using the early Ford master cylinder. They even give you a drawing of the bracket for the master cylinder. I did the set up for my brother's '32 and found out that the ratio of the pedal to the pivot and the master cylinder piston is 4:1. It seems that on most cars, that ratio is 6:1 and the 4:1 ratio requires a bunch more force on the pedal to get the same amount of whoa! For my 'A', I designed my own K member, moving the master cylinder up enough to get that 6:1 ratio. I had to make a new pedal bracket and a ledge in the K member to hold it. I also made my own pedals out of 3/8 plate. Worked out nicely.
 
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I ain't the sharpest tack in the box but have sold a lot of Boling Bros brakes and they have different backing plates for the 32-34 spindles, 35-36 spindles and 37 up spindles. Rear backing plates are also separated by years, 32-34, 35-36 & 37 up. I don't think the rears are universal for all years? I feel certain someone here will tell me how dumb I am?
 
Gary, if you put 39-41 or 42-48 Ford brakes on your 32 rear, it’s a bolt on. If you want Lincolns, I think there is a little clearancing needed for the spring perch. Maybe Boling does the clearancing for you?
 
Regarding the thread link I posted above in post #7.

The below is part of the text from post #5 of https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315565&highlight=master+cylinder&showall=1

The beauty is you get a lot of fluid movement and then the easy pedal action off the step. My brake arm ratio is 4 1/3 with the rod tight up against the K-section.

"I currently have a stepped bore master in my 32. The stepped bore was designed for moving a large volume of fluid quickly to take up the gap in early Chevy applications that used front disks that were low drag. These are the bore sizes on my CARDONE 101905. Note that there are no residual check valves inside this MS so those shall be added into your system.


Bore Diameter (N) 0.945"

Bore Diameter (N-1) 1.25"


For the front brakes, primary side, the initial lower pressure fluid is pushed with the N-1 large bore of 1.25". This closes the gap between front shoes and brake drum, then the N bore of 0.945" applies high pressure to both the front and rear brake drums. The advantage is that the initial 1/4" stroke takes up the gap and then the smaller N bore takes over. The pedal stays high without a lot of pedal travel. I'm very happy with this setup but I also believe that Krylon's MS is a great choice too."
 
If you are looking for an off the shelf kit, Early V8 garage has bolt-on (no weld) kits that include a master cylinder as well as mounting brackets. Single pot or double pot master cylinder options. Kinda pricey but thought out well.

I have one of their kits in my 34 pickup with a single pot mc which is the 39-48 ford mc.

http://www.earlyv8garage.net/

When I call I leave a message on their answering machine. So far no return call. :mad:
 
I ain't the sharpest tack in the box but have sold a lot of Boling Bros brakes and they have different backing plates for the 32-34 spindles, 35-36 spindles and 37 up spindles. Rear backing plates are also separated by years, 32-34, 35-36 & 37 up. I don't think the rears are universal for all years? I feel certain someone here will tell me how dumb I am?

Does Boling Bros. have front backing plates and brakes that bolt up to Model A spindles? I'd rather not have to modify the 40-48 backing plates to make them fit.
 
My favorite, all reworked Ford parts including the 32 brake trundle, keeps the MC under the floor.
 

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Box car Tom, that is a very clean set-up, what is the original application of the actuating arms?
Tom
 
hotcoupe, Tom, Full disclosure, this is not my design, I wish I could take credit for it but the fact is I found these pictures on the inter-net some time ago. The simplicity of the redesign is sheer hot rod genius.

The set up reuses the original 32 trundle. The actuating arms are modified 32 trundle arms. The original 32 brake and clutch pedal set is reused without modification.

Tom
 
It's a neat setup and I saw Matt at Irontrap use the same or similar on a 32 recently. I do not like it however because it relies on two pinned joints. If I were to use those parts I would weld the levers to the shaft for extra security.

Probably overkill but it is a safety critical item.

Mart.
 
No more vulnerable than the original mechanical brake system. Maybe overkill is prudent when higher performance is expected.

Tom,
 
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