Juice Brakes Model A

Jack '29 Sport Coupe said:
My car only has juice brakes because the guy who owned it in the past installed them. I've driven and owned mechanicals in the past and can't really say that juice
is worth the extra expense. This is just MY opinion, so all of you that will disagree,
don't bother. JMHO

Jack
Click to expand...

I'm redoing the 'juice' brakes on the '29 mainly because it was converted in the '50s by my father-in-law and all the parts are there but in sad shape.

I have no idea what it would cost to go back to original as none of the parts are here so its cost effective to 'stay the course'.

I just Just got the wheel cylinders unfrozen. I welded in plugs to the backing plates and redrilled them because the holes were just 'egged' out to make them fit. Not the best installation methods were used. The backing plates on the front used what looks like a piston ring around the spindle edge for alignment. One of them is broken so I'm hoping to be able to just tack it together with the MIG so it can be one piece again so I don't have to mess with 2 pieces. Copper tubing was used instead of steel for the lines.

The old guy was a good Ford Tractor mechanic and Tank mechanic during the Korean war when he was in Germany but probably didn't use the best judgement with his fabrication skills.
 
Good Post! My 30 T.S. has juice brakes with reversed backing plates. The Wheel Cyl is on the bottom. They're the 39-48 part. The wheel Cyls were frozen. To buy new ones it's $ 60-70 apiece,. so they're getting rebuilt. First thing you need is a brake Cyl hone, of which there aren't too many around. It's got to compress down to the 1" Dia of the small side of the 39-48 Cyl. This must be the only car ever made with two Diameter's in it's wheel cyls. Any suggestions?
Terry.
 
Get a rod like a 1/4 or 3/8 even a drill bit wind some tap around it,Like masking tape ,3 turns ,then get some foam rubber about 1/4 thick and some 80 to 60 grit sand paper ,cut these 1/12 wide wind these around ante clock wise sandwiched all together till its at your thickness you want .Before the last two turns cut the tape so you have only foam & sand paper .The tape goes on the face of the sand paper .you can also use a 1/2 a socket on a small drive that fits in a drill wind the layers around that .You can use Kerosene as a lube but I think I would do it dry. Finnish with 400 or 240 grit ,Ted
 
Brake hones aren't too much money.I buy the KD brand,they are cheap and I manage to twist up a couple a year by pulling them out just a little too much when honing and they fetch up on the rim of the cyl.I use WD 40 to lube when honing.It keeps the stones cutting and free from gumming up.About the only use I have for WD 40.
 
Here's a cheap way to install a Mustang MC (about $25 at NAPA) using the stock brake cross bar. I cut the clevis' off the ends, welded a new arm that pushes a cut down brake rod connected to the MC mounted under the passenger side. Easy to check the fluids, no extra holes to drill, uses the stock brake pedal. MC mounts on the cross member. Photo shows service brake cross bar modified to accuate the MC.
 

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