Juice brake adjustment experts in da house?

Tom in TN

Tom in TN

Senior Member
Had to replace the left front wheel cylinder because of leaking. Adjusted it snug, but not tight.
Driving car- hit the brakes, it lurches violently to the LEFT.
So, ok, maybe it's too tight, so I raise it up and even tho I can just barely hear the shoe on the drum as the tire is spun.- I back off the cams just a bit. THEN I go check the right side and can hardly spin the wheel it is sooo tight. I back off the cams all the way - it is still too tight (by too tight, I mean I would never adjust them this tight and run it.) and a test drive says the same story...mash the brakes and it pulls way hard to the LEFT.

So, the question... if the RIGHT is that tight, shouldn't it pull to the RIGHT? This puzzles me.

Brakes are 42-46 Ford, non-self adjusting. Has the 11/16 head adjustment cams.

Any ideas?
 
Did you replace the brake lining that got fluid on it?? --this will cause grabbing --had this problem with the 39, and 46 I had, now have 31A, and 36 because they have reliable mechanical brakes---no leaking wheel cyls to cause pulling and other problems

a little oil or brake fluid on the linings will cause grabbing, a lot on the linings will cause slipping, once it is in the linings you can try to get it out but still some remains, perhaps cleaned linings will work, but sometimes there will be some grabbing on the first application----but the brakes won't have the full stopping power of linings that have not been contaminated.
 
Is the right wheel cylinder functioning properly or at all? Do you, by any chance, happen to have the 39-41 backing plates that have the adjustment at the bottom of the shoe for centering the shoe, as well as the upper cam adjustment? Bottom pivot might need adjustment. Plugged line between the LF and RF wheel cyls? Try opening the right front bleeder valve to see if fluid is expelled when the brake pedal is pushed. Something's screwy.
 
Thanks guys... no I didn't replace the linings. but Hery's post makes sense... will check the RF and see if it's even able to work.
 
You might have defective hoses, the one to the right is blocked - (collapsed inside) - you don't say how old they are.

To be honest, if the left cylinder failed and the right one is the same age, you should probably replace them both (and think about the rears too).

Mart.
 
Mart said:
You might have defective hoses, the one to the right is blocked - (collapsed inside) - you don't say how old they are.

To be honest, if the left cylinder failed and the right one is the same age, you should probably replace them both (and think about the rears too).

Mart.
Click to expand...

Might be right, Mart... all of this was brand new in 1996. I'm breaking down the right side tomorrow, I'll know more then... thanks all.
 
OK, here's the latest - opened the bleeder and fluid does come out- so that's oK. Took the RF drum off and Wheel cyl looks good- no leaks at all. But it looks like I had adjusted the cams too far 'loose' and they were moving the shoes a tad.

Set them back to just plain 'loose' and the wheel turns much freer.

Test drive still shows some LF pulling. I had cleaned the shoes/drum with brake parts cleaner... maybe it's still contaminated...so maybe cleaning with acetone or replacing the shoes is in order... I'm gonna try driving with them adjusted snug and see if I can heat the shoes and burn the mess out of there.

Glad to hear any more ideas... :)
 
Heating up the brakes will glaze them over and make things even worse. Take the advise and put on a new set of shoes.
 
Did you adjust the lower cams with the locknuts as well? If you have the green service bulletin book it shows step by step on page 112. Good luck
 
As suggested, the hoses are more than 15 years old and likely assymmetrically swelled inside. Replace both sides while you're at it.

Jack E/NJ
 
I read the article, and regarding the pedal 'feel' with silicone brake fluid remember that silicone brake fluid is slightly compressable, whereas other liquids like water and regular brake fluid are not compressable.
 
One thing guys often overlook: Just because fluid comes out of the cylinder does NOT mean the cylinder is operating correctly.
All too often moisture enters the system and will gather corrosion within a cylinder. That will certainly allow the pistons to move out but not allow them to retract very well.
I might suggest you inspect the cylinders carefully.
 
May I add. Be very sure that the wheel cylinder that you replaced, has the same size bore as the one on the other side. Cylinders with different bores on the front can really cause havoc with wanting to pull one way or the other. Because of different bores the cylinders will react differently because they are both getting the same pressure from the master cylinder. I have seen wheel cylinders that would extend but not retract, there by causing one wheel to get tight and not turn.
 
Thanks for the help fellers... most of this I've got correct... If hoses go bad after only 15 years, we're all dead meat.
I checked Mac's to get new shoes and those clowns want 50 bucks core charge for ALL 4 shoes... I only need 2. Anyone sell only one side?
 
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