Jay Leno's ceramic detailer

Even brand new cars have industrial fallout (iron particles from railyards, cars, pollution, and such) embedded in the fresh paint. Having said that, even new cars can use some paint attention if you really want to make the paint look its best and last. "Ceramic" detailers have a trace amount of SiO2 (ceramic) in them. They're mostly polyethylene and are not true ceramic coatings. They work well for cars that either don't get real dirty, or have already been washed.

Because I have children and no consistent time to take care of my daily driver's paint, when I bought my new challenger scatpack I ceramic coated it myself. I knew I'd be keeping the car indefinitely.

In summary, you start with a wash, clay bar, iron remover solution, a polishing process, then a prep spray. Lastly, you coat the vehicle with the ceramic coating using a tiny sponge or rag. It's a whole technical process I won't go into. It's laborious. You'd be amazed at the junk I got out of the brand new paint on my scatpack. It's been on for several years and still protects my paint, beads water, and shines well.

Don't get fooled into thinking ceramic detailers are real long term protection. If you have an old ride with single stage paint, stick with some carnuba or even poly wax (even the spray stuff is fine). Your wallet will thank you. If you have something new you're keeping forever, or if you have a base-clear paint job, a proper ceramic coating my be in your best interest. if you're a DIYer, it's cheap. If you have to pay someone, like everything else, you'll really pay out the you know what.
 
All in all, I agree with "Hoodooman". I went down that road with a new car about 20 years ago. I will agree that the "claybar" process is laborious but effective. At my age, it's a little beyond my capabilities, so I'm stuck with "patina" these days.:(
 
My cousin and a good friend are professional detailers. True ceramic coating is a big process. and a small 2oz bottle of good 14H coating will set you back $100 for just the coating, and to do it properly as Hoodoman says is a whole day process.

My friend that is a detailer tested over 50 "spray" detailer products that claims to have small amounts of ceramic and the best was one called Nexgen. Surprisingly the best box store one was Turtle Wax brand. These are still not true ceramic coatings

Personally for regular cleaning I like P&S detail products.
 
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Good friend is a PPG paint rep.
He got me hooked on this product some time ago.
It is thick.
I set the container in a Coffee can with warm water for 15 minutes prior to use.
One small dab on a foam pad will cover an entire door.
Easy to polish off.
Dries clear, so material on edge of a panel or trim does dry with white residue.

Jescar power plus application, followed by a collinite 845 application is about the best looking wax application you can do. Car looks wet and vibrant for about 6 months.

JB
 
Jescar power plus application, followed by a collinite 845 application is about the best looking wax application you can do. Car looks wet and vibrant for about 6 months.

JB
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Yes, the true ceramic coating jobs are quite expensive. My brother paid $1500 to have his Tundra done a few years ago and it always looks great. The entire exterior was coated; paint, glass, plastics, and chrome. I believe he had the interior done too. Too rich for my blood.

I’ve got a good friend and neighbor who geeks out on detailing, especially paint correction and polishing. He won’t let my cars go beyond 6 months without a paint maintenance. Usually wash, clay bar (if needed), polish and some sort of ceramic sealer.

Of course I’m talking about late model or new cars not our old fords.

I’ll make one recommendation for those that have a later model car with all the black plastic around wheel wells, on your side view mirrors, and on bumpers. Try out Cerakote wipes to restore that black plastic. Awesome stuff. I used them on my Ram truck months ago and it still looks great.
 
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