I've got to Stop this oil leak!!

[chesapeake bill]

Oil leak on Fly wheel ( on FW cover, not in housing) OK, pan drop completed, cleaned thick black sludge out of pan, all new gaskets installed (although the back cork-like gasket might have been cut 1/16 short it was hard to tell.. (so I put gasket sealer on edges as I thought that the cork would compress some as the pan was tightened) .. Now the leak is worst. What next? No oil in Fly Wheel cover but seems to be only on front of the cover. Could there be another seal up higher on the Flywheel that’s dripping down? Did I just screw up on the rear gasket? Do I need to drop it again #%&##! if so do I need to replace all the gaskets again? Advise please!

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Bill, I went back and read your previous posts to determine what type of car you are working on and what type of engine it has. Sounds like you have a Model A fordor town sedan but still not sure which engine it has. Is it a 4 cylinder or flathead V8? The pictures may tell the story but I can't see them that well on my smart phone.

 

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

You should post this on the A form. The rear cam bearing is open to the back of the block. There is a gasket that goes over the hole, between the block and the fly housing. That is why you have to put a .010" shims between the housing and the block, where the throttle assy bolts on. So you won't crack the fly housing. If your original leak WAS the cam gasket, I'd guess you now have two leaks. The rear cam bearing gasket, and the too short rear gasket you mentioned. Also, a rear main with excessive clearance, the drain tube , can also cause rear pan leaks. Chuck