it runs

Al Bass

Al Bass

Senior Member
I started my rebuilt engine today. after about a minute it started to knock with a really bad rapping sound, at a really fast idle it would stop but backing it down to idle it would rattle again, I used my stethoscope and held it on the gear cover were the cam plunger sits and that is were the noise was comming from. I reved it up to a fast idle and held it there for about 3 minutes I guess and when it went back to idle no more noise, I think it just needed to settle in. Then I saw a waterleak on the bottom side of the water jacket just under the water pump, the same place I had the machine shop weld up for me.:mad: I will call them tomorrow. is there an easy patch that I could use without tearing things all apart ? I will take it for its maiden vayage tomorrow if we dont get to much snow tonight. DSCN4788.jpg

DSCN4785.jpg
 
Cooling system sealant, barr's or alumaseal(not the full tube). What condition is radiator in (you don't want to put sealant into a marginal radiator i wouldn't think). Dry e/thing and try JB WQeld on the outside? let us know what you find for sure it is and what you do to correct, please.
Paul in CT
 
the radiator is a new recore with 0 hrs. I hate to put stop leak in it. If I get it ready to drive soon enough today I am going to run by the shop that fixed the leak and see what they say.
the copper tube goes to an oil pressure gauge.
 
If the block is cracked, we used JB Weld on ours. The cooling system is not under that much pressure so it wil hold fine.

Mike
 
Just asking for clarification: Is it the repair that was done that is leaking, or could it be coming from somewhere else?

I never really listened to my father until I got much older, "...if you see hoof-prints look for a horse first, then when you don't find one you can look for a zebra." Check the hoses, packing nut, water pump gasket and water neck gasket first. A leak at any one of these points would end up dripping right about where you say it is leaking. That is just where I would start, good luck.
 
Ouch a Leak! Don't fret to much yet.
JB Weld..the slow set...has curred many a frost crack in my shop on a Model A block. Find the crack by magnafluxing and cut along the fault line with a 1/16" wide abrasive blade about 3/32" deep. Clean the surfaces and make sure the surfaces are dry. Force JB Weld into the cut leaving a buildup over the cut as it seems to shrink a bit when curing and most times shows the line of the crack. I know...shrink..I do not know for sure if it shrinks but it always shows the cut line as the JB cures. It has never pulled away from the cut edges and we have not had one leak yet. The JB Weld can be filed or sanded when left to cure over night. Most of the time, you can not see the repair.
Good luck with your new engine!
Dave in MN
 
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the coupe I have aparently had a leak in the same place as yours. when I was cleaning the block to repaint it I found JB weld in the front under the water pump and it has not given me any problems.
 
if the JB weld does not hold, maybe take the head off and get it rewelded or find a good origional one, not many other choices, my friend has the same probelm, he just got a new head,
John
 
I talked to the mechanic that did the welding on the block and he said to use K&N Block sealer. that I should drain and flush the antifreeze out and put in about 1/4 can of the sealer through the upper goosneck and let it run down into the front end of the block were the crack is and start the engine and let it run just long enough to get a little heat in it and let it set over night.so maybe tomorrow I will try it ,but I think I will put the backend of the car on ramps to make sure the sealer stays in the front of the block were the crack is.
 
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