Isky super 88 cam

G

graeme_capon

Junior Member
Hi
Can I get peoples opinion on the Isky 88 cam, i really like the note and was after something that has a bit of note to it at idle.
Im currently getting a new engine built.
59A
Eddie Meyer heads and duel intake
Scat 274 stroker kit.
Duel 94 carbs
Stromberg ignition
Twin exhaust system
The engine is to go into a 1935 3 window coupe running 39 gearbox and original rear end with 3.54 ratio.
Is this cam streetable or is it going to be more of a pain and i should option for something like the isky max 1.
Any opinions are really appreciated as i dont want to make the wrong decision .
Thanks
 
I have done a search but there isnt alot said about the 88 for streetable use, theres a lot of mention about the max 1.
Hence why i was asking for peoples opinions who acually have that cam.
Thanks
 
My dad's '32 roadster has a Isky Max 1. It has lots of low-end torque and pulls hard through the rpm range, but it has "no" lope to it, which is disappointing for a vintage highboy roadster. It is about to come out and a Potvin Super 3/8th with lots of lope is going back in.

I went on YouTube and listened to an Isky 88, it's a good sounding cam, not quite as aggressive as the 400 JR. I think I'd try it. You have that 274 stroker kit which will help offset the low-end torque loss from the Isky 88. I know a lot of people with big cams in highboy roadsters and they perfectly streetable but hopefully someone with a heavier '36 will chime in on what it's like driving a heavier '36 with a 3/4 to full race camshaft. You might like 3.78 gears a little better than the 3.54s with that camshaft since you're losing low end power with that cam. It just depends on where you're going to be driving, down the freeway, stop and go city driving or just to the malt shop.
 
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I have a 292 ci motor and run a Potvin 3/8ths cam. This motor runs like a raped ape. I have headers to halved '36 drive shafts and it grabs peoples attention when it starts up.

It's in a '28 AV8 roadster. I couldn't be happier with the cam. I would also consider the Isky 1007B or Tony's Kiwi L100. All three of these cams have .375" lift, but will run well in a street car.

Next motor I build is going to use an Potvin Eliminator.
 
Flathead Fever said:
My dad's '32 roadster has a Isky Max 1. It has lots of low-end torque and pulls hard through the rpm range, but it has "no" lope to it, which is disappointing for a vintage highboy roadster. It is about to come out and a Potvin Super 3/8th with lots of lope is going back in.
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You are going to be very happy with the Potvin. I have an aluminum flywheel and , after I adjusted the timing, it has instant throttle response. The cam sounds angry and mean and runs great in a light car.

I have 28 tooth gearing and a 3.78 rear and was able to pull away at a light with a slight roll in 2nd gear. Couldn't be happier.
 
Well, I run an 88 in my 35, have done for years. Only a little 221, this engine loves to rev. How it would run with your added cubes, I cannot say. Worked best with a 3.78 rear, a 3.54 didn't allow the same performance, currently running a 4.11 with Columbia.
I consider that the way to choose a cam is to calculate where you wish to achieve the useable power and cam to suit. It is easy to 'overcam' if you just choose for the 'note', and have some horrible, jerky, unstreetable engine at low speed, particularly with a light flywheel.
Even that little 221 can be a bit 'jerky', like when coasting up to an intersection in top gear at below 30 MPH. [I also run a light flywheel]
Having more cubes tends to 'tame' a cam, you'll probably be very happy with the 88.
 
Regardless of what cam you choose, the cost will be well over $500. So, considering the fact that this is a street engine, the application of some whiled cam isn't necessary. An EAB cam will preform all the necessary performance any other cam can with better gas mileage
Gramps
 
I don't mean application appropriateness, I mean quality. I have read personal accounts (not mine) of folks who installed Isky cams and couldn't get them to run. Wouldn't degree right.

Hopefully in the last couple years Isky has corrected those issues, but I can't confirm that.
 
alchemy said:
I don't mean application appropriateness, I mean quality. I have read personal accounts (not mine) of folks who installed Isky cams and couldn't get them to run. Wouldn't degree right.

Hopefully in the last couple years Isky has corrected those issues, but I can't confirm that.
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Agreed. I have not heard anything good regarding Isky flathead cams that have come from Isky. Shame.

Good news is there are guys on here (Pete & Tony) doing quality re-grinds.

I may be in the minority, but getting good gas mileage is my last concern when building a hot rod or warmed up motor.
 
I had just about the same setup in a '36 3-window (276 Merc, Holley 390, MSD ignition, Fenton headers, but a MAX-1 cam.) I also backed it up with a '39 box with inspected later gears with new bearings and synchronizers and a 4.11 banjo. It was the car I had dreamed of building since I was in high school.

The guy who built the engine must have known what he was doing, because I could break axles with ease. After replacing two axles, I( realized that to fully enjoy the car, it would need a drive train update if I were to fully enjoy it. That plus the fact that the car was extremely cramped inside for me caused me to take the proverbial offer I couldn't refuse from a collector on the other side of town.

I guess my point is that "Ol Ron" is probably right. Why spend extra time and money just to over-stress your drive train? I currently have a modified '51 Merc in my '51 Ford club coupe, and after much research and discussion here and on the H.A.M.B., I decided to keep the stock 8CM cam. I'm glad I did and in addition, I don't have to wo0rry about some unknown adjustable lifters loosening (or tightening) up over the next few years.
 
I bought a regrind from Schneider last year and it was $145 plus $30 shipping. 248F w/ 0.350" lift, took about one month for them to regrind a core I sent out and get it back to me. I have not run the engine yet but it degrees out perfectly and has the correct lift. Ken
 
Given the size of your engine, I'd agree with Tim --- you won't go wrong with a Potvin 3/8, Kiwi L100 from Tony or an Isky 1007B. Those would be my preferred cams for an engine of that size. They will sound great and deliver a lot of solid performance.

With 3.54 gears, you may have to slip the clutch a little bit from a dead stop - depending on the weight of your flywheel. If you're running a stock flywheel, then probably not . . . if you're running an aluminum or heavily lightened flywheel, then probably a little.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Given the size of your engine, I'd agree with Tim --- you won't go wrong with a Potvin 3/8, Kiwi L100 from Tony or an Isky 1007B. Those would be my preferred cams for an engine of that size. They will sound great and deliver a lot of solid performance.

With 3.54 gears, you may have to slip the clutch a little bit from a dead stop - depending on the weight of your flywheel. If you're running a stock flywheel, then probably not . . . if you're running an aluminum or heavily lightened flywheel, then probably a little.
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If it helps for reference, my car is a '28 roadster on a '32 frame. A tad lighter than a '36.

292 c.i with a Weber flywheel, 28 tooth gears and 3.78's. Cam is a Potvin 3/8th. Intake is a Edlebrock Slingshot with two rebuilt 97's. A lot of porting, large intake valves and other tricks to the engine, but you get the idea.

Yesterday, I rolled up slowly to a stop light in second. With the slightest slip of the clutch, I was able to take off in 2nd gear without any bogging.

Once under power, car took off instantly.

Once the timing was adjusted (which I did yesterday and it still needs some fine tuning), the engine has instant throttle response.

Next motor I want to build, I am planning on using the Potvin Eliminator since I'm so impressed with 3/8ths.

I do have one of Tony's L100's in stock and I plan to use that in my Dad's '32. I also plan to get a 1007B from Pete. Just need to get off my butt and send him the core.
 
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BTW, if you're looking into the Potvin 3/8 or Isky 1007B, have 'Pete" regrind a stock cam for you. If you're looking for an L100 - contact Kiwi Tony. They both do great work and most of us recommend them both for all our cam needs.
 
Ken Henry said:
I bought a regrind from Schneider last year and it was $145 plus $30 shipping. 248F w/ 0.350" lift, took about one month for them to regrind a core I sent out and get it back to me. I have not run the engine yet but it degrees out perfectly and has the correct lift. Ken
Click to expand...

I am running a new Schneider 248f in my 284 inch motor in '41 coupe. Lots of low end torque which is good for the very tall gears I am running (3.25). Did break an axle last year.

The idle sound at idle is a nice burble, but will not impress anyone at the drive-in.
 
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