Is this U-Joint play normal

G

goldie

Member
I am preparing to install a Mitchell overdrive and synchro transmission. Upon removing the torque tube I found that the U-joint has 3/32" of play in and out is this normal? I would think this would cause a lot of vibration but none was felt. I am new to "A"s and this joint is unlike any I am familiar with.
Any guidance is appreciated.
 
I’m not sure I understand. The universal joint is bolted to the output shaft of the transmission. I wouldn’t think there would be any in and out movement from wear. A worn universal joint will have lateral (twisty back and forth) movement. 3/32” sounds like a lot to me.

Considering how much trouble it is to replace the universal joint, I think I would replace it if there is that much play in it. (Be super careful with that rear spring. It can really hurt you if it breaks free.)

Last year, when I needed to replace my universal joint, I could not find one. I eventually bought a new one from Gary Nelson. sugarhill1955@gmail.com He is a nice guy, and he has speedy delivery.

New universal joints may be a slightly newer design that may “kiss” the housing slightly in use but work fine.

An original, used universal joint in good shape will not “kiss” the housing, but they are harder to find.


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This slide might help you.
 

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If it is the riveted design as pictured above. Replace it. The "cross" in the new should slide left and right-up and down, but NO rotational play. None. Hold both ends in your hand. If it will rotate - even a tiny bit- It is prudent to replacet it while the rear end is out.
 
The joint I have is a Spicer. The play is not the needle bearings, it is the side-to-side movement of 3/32". Difficult for me to explain? Would a rebuild kit remove this play or is it the yoke that has worn?
 
goldie said:
The joint I have is a Spicer. The play is not the needle bearings, it is the side-to-side movement of 3/32". Difficult for me to explain? Would a rebuild kit remove this play or is it the yoke that has worn?
Click to expand...

I rebuilt my u-joint a couple years ago, it had the side to side play, after the rebuilding no play ! I don’t remember needles, I’ve slept too many nights, but I think the cups is where the wearing occurred
 
In a Spicer style universal joint, it is possible to move what I will call the cross piece back and forth in the needle rollers along the direction the rollers lay in there. in other words, along the line of one of the arms of the cross piece and at right angles to the drive shaft.
I hope I have explained that well enough.
If you had no vibration before, I wouldn't over think this, just put it back together, grease it and drive on.
 
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Riveted types were generally replaced with the B-7090 non-riveted types used up though 1948. The B-7090 is a bushing type U-joint. It replaced the earlier A-7090 for spare part replacement. The Lincoln U-joints had needle bearings and can be substituted for the bushing type joint. They may not last as long though. It just depends on where any reproductions may have been manufactured. Some had an inner yoke where the splined portion was too short. This allowed the spline portion to move on the shaft since the belleville washer wouldn't make contact when the U-joint was installed. Rebuild kits are available for the B-7090 bushing type U-joints.

Using John Deer Corn Head Grease in the U-joint housing will keep them lasting longer with minimal leakage. As was mentioned previously, some of the later B-7090 reproductions have a little too much meat on them and can rub on the housing without modification. This is where it helps to know exactly what to look for. A rebuildable original B-7090 joint is good to go since all the parts that wear the most are in the rebuild kits.
 
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