Is This the Difference between Original and Repop?

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I have two sets of 30/31 rear fenders. One set came on the car, one set was purchased from a fellow. All four appear to be for the correct model ( coupe) and the correct year as per everything I can find regarding the area that bolts to the splash apron and running boards. All four will bolt to the body and to the splash aprons and running boards. In determining which ones to finish and use, I set them side by side and noticed the difference in height. See photo one. When placed loosely onto the car there is an obvious difference as can be seen in photos two and three. See how much lower the passenger side sits in photo two? Can anyone tell me what is happening here?
 

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It appears that the actual upper curve of the two fenders is different. The repro is flatter and that might be what lowers the profile. If you could cut a piece ofmcardboard to matxh the original curve, then fit that to the repro, it might give you an insight. Do you know who made the repros?
 
Ray,
I have no idea who made the repos. The two black fenders came from a donor I was told was a '30. The blasted but un-repaired fenders came on the '31 coupe. The black driver's side fender appears to be correct but not the passenger side.
 
I know your talking about 30/31, but my experience may be relevant. I compared original 28/29 rear Coup/Pickup fenders to new repos, and there is a definite lower crown on the repo fenders.
 
In the pics, the R/H gloss black one has a shorter tail piece compared to the other three. Could it still be an original, but a different stamping from a different factory?
 
who knows. The curve seems okay most of the way around but the passenger side fender is clearly much shorter in the tail. That side is about one and a half inches higher from the ground than the driver's side.
 
Maybe some engineer told Henry they were spending too much to repair the proverbial drivers-side lean, and he came up with a cheaper fix.
 
Terry Detters showed me the differences between repop and original rear fenders some time ago. A lot of it focuses on the front area of the rear fender. The ribbed flange at the front where the running board bolts up and the body flange at the bottom of the front will have a specific angle to them that repops don't. Also the cutting for the fender edge brackets are specific, the fender edge brackets are thinner than repos, and they were spot welded on the fender leaving two indentations on the lip molding that you should be able to see even after painting.
 
Maybe some engineer told Henry they were spending too much to repair the proverbial drivers-side lean, and he came up with a cheaper fix.
J Franklin, you're a GREAT Common-Sense FUNNY MAN!!!
ALSO, I've never seen HOW fender or body parts dies are made??? Must be a BIG complicated process! Are the two halves CASTED & then finished off??? Just think of how HEAVY they must be!!!! Must be an art, to make them fit together, PRECISELY!!! "Maybe" they had Harbor Freight type places, to buy special GRINDERS/SANDERS/ETC ????
"Maybe" I jist "think" TOO MUCH???--Cindy thinks I'm a KNut!
Bill Puzzled?
 
In the pics, the R/H gloss black one has a shorter tail piece compared to the other three. Could it still be an original, but a different stamping from a different factory?

I have found the same differences when buying Model A coupe/pick up rear fenders. Some of Henry's rear fenders have a longer tail piece from one fender as compared to the next fender.
 
I took a tape measure to see just what was happening. The three identical original fenders measure seventy-one inches from the area that bolts to the running board to the end of the tail section. the "odd ball", repop or not I don't know, measured sixty-eight and a half inches. Big difference but the bolt patterns match. Wo knows what this fender belongs to really.
 
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