Is this radiator salvageable? (cost wise)

cajunfirehawk

cajunfirehawk

Senior Member
On my list to replace/repair is this radiator in my 36, as a teen I spent time working in a radiator shop (OMG talk about hot in the deep south!) and I think it might be toast? I mean for my once in a blue moon driven flattie, I can't see tying up several hundred on a repair or just buying a new rad, thoughts?
 

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Recoring one is expensive and the tanks & fittings have to be at least repairable. There was a recent discussion about this but the condition of each radiator will likely be different so prices depend on condition. The Brass Works will make a new one but their waiting list is long and it will be more expensive than a recore. Fit is a concern too. A person would want to find a shop with a lot of experience. If you worked in a radiator shop then you have an idea of all the work and materials involved. With shop rates around $85 per hour, it will be more than a few hundred bucks.
 
Rather than guessing about the condition of your '36 radiator I would suggest that you take it to a radiator shop and have it inspected, cleaned and tested.
I know that radiator shops that actually work on radiators are quite rare, the good ones usually specialize in truck radiators, however, a radiator is a radiator.
I have had excellent success using aluminum radiators from SpeedWay/Summit that are made for stock car racing. We use cross-flow radiators, standing them up. By using a radiator for a GM in a Ford the in and out tubes are in the correct position. Of course for a flat head, additional upper and lower tubes have to be added. The fill neck being on the side of the upper tank is an added bonus.
The aluminum racing radiators have large tubes and thick cores so they really cool an engine.
 
Having worked in a radiator repair shop long ago, I bet you could repair it yourself.
Unsolder the top tank and hammer and dolly work on dents. You can buy bar clamps to reassemble.
 
I worked in a radiator shop. Based on the pictures it can be made to sort of function for a while yet, knowing how well is another story.
 
I guess I should have been a little clearer in my earlier comment about using cross-flow aluminum radiators in pre '40 EFV8's.. Ford did not use a conventional core support in the front ends of their cars, therefore the radiator is a part of the front end assembly to which the hood and fenders are attached.
Some creative modifications would be required to adapt a radiator not intended for a EFV8.
 
Decided to have a replacement made somewhat locally, discussed the different types with them and was told the aluminum would cool better so I went with Bryce Thomas Radiator out of Gadsen , Al. They sent me a print and I verified apx 20 different dimensions and they're drawing was spot on for an exact replica of a 1936 ford flathead car radiator. I also discussed sending my old one to them for rebuild but that was over $800, the alum replacment was $595 shipped :)
Will post pics when it arrives next week.
 
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theres a mob in aus called aussie dessert coolers take a pic make a drawing with the relivent measurements and contact them you just might get a nice surprise specially now an aussie dollars below 75cents
 
Whoever told you that Aluminum cools better than Copper is mistaken. The only metal with a higher thermal conductivity than Copper is Silver.

Your $595 shipped Aluminum radiator with 20 confirmed dimensions just might fit your application, but if they would have you believe that Aluminum cools better than Copper, I hope you feel lucky today.
 
ford38v8 said:
Whoever told you that Aluminum cools better than Copper is mistaken. The only metal with a higher thermal conductivity than Copper is Silver.

Your $595 shipped Aluminum radiator with 20 confirmed dimensions just might fit your application, but if they would have you believe that Aluminum cools better than Copper, I hope you feel lucky today.
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Yea. I didn't want to be the first to say this. I got crucified on another
forum for advising that aluminum is not as good as copper/brass.
(my own actual experience with a $800 aluminum radiator vs a
$250 copper/brass apparently not mattering in cyberland)
 

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Check out Champion Cooling if you are not interested in "stock". Chap

Championcooling.com
 
Brass Copper radiators have taken a jump in prices recently. I got a new dealer price sheet from Walker and before I got it in the computer I got another update raising the prices a second time. I assume it's the same with re-cores?
 
ford38v8 said:
Whoever told you that Aluminum cools better than Copper is mistaken. The only metal with a higher thermal conductivity than Copper is Silver.

Your $595 shipped Aluminum radiator with 20 confirmed dimensions just might fit your application, but if they would have you believe that Aluminum cools better than Copper, I hope you feel lucky today.
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Not looking for a debate but one of the guys here did,
https://www.cgj.com/2013/07/16/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-radiator-final-thoughts/
FWIW, my car isn't a "restored 36", it is just my "as is, 82 y/o toy" (1 of) I'll let you read their info...I'm content with this decision considering I started with an original radiator with an ear plug stuck in a leak, I kid you not.
43098772895_bcfbc08406_c.jpg

In the end as long as the car runs cool I couldn't care less, not intended to offend the purists. YMMV
 
The determining factor in my decision to replace the original radiator in my '48 Merc with aluminum was cost. $600+ to re-core locally as opposed to $204 from Champion with free shipping. It was $250 to re-core the rotted out heater. As long as I use the recommended coolant, the aluminum should outlive me.
 
alanp561 said:
The determining factor in my decision to replace the original radiator in my '48 Merc with aluminum was cost. $600+ to re-core locally as opposed to $204 from Champion with free shipping. It was $250 to re-core the rotted out heater. As long as I use the recommended coolant, the aluminum should outlive me.
Click to expand...
I could have had mine rebuilt for $800 plus freight but like you say, this is a 6 time a year driver so I can save that $ and use for my other toys, IMHO
 
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