Is this frame worth saving?

K

ken will

Junior Member
When I pulled off the left motor mount and the previous repair patches, I found why the frame is sagging!

Is there a best way to repair the damage?

Left%20sag.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Left sag.jpg
    Left sag.jpg
    150.8 KB · Views: 39
Last edited:
First, welcome aboard.
With so many good frames still available fairly cheap, I would just look for another frame.
 
frames can be repaired, BUT I would look for a replacement first. I'm not talking about a bent frame horn, but actual structural damage. For the little amount of money most good frames are selling for, I feel it would be a wise investment to take the sway back away. If you are paying for the repair it would be money well spent to replace it. IMHO

Restoring a '30AA right now and replaced the frame because of the rusted condition, and I'm a certified welder... Your mileage may vary And another thing I understand that many states will not pass a welded frame on a vehicle inspection
 
I purchased my last model A frame (1930) from the Monroe, WA Swap Meet last year for $100. It needed a little metal work but there wasn't any rust out. It was money well spent. A hot rodder, who had put a modern frame under his ride, got rid of this one.
 
If the frame number matches your engine number, I think it is worth saving. In fact, I try to save everything. The name of the game is "restoration", not "replacement".
 
Last edited:
I think that every piece of the frame can be had individually. Why not try to just replace whats bad?
Terry
 
Well, sounds like you got the full gammet of answers. In other words, do what you think is best. If you replace the frame and you already have a title, re stamp your existing title number on the new frame.
 
Mitch//pa said:
Find a good frame instead of piece mealing it. The numbers are a minor issue
Click to expand...

Mitch, my reasoning on the numbers is that if you have a car with matching numbers, you are likely to have other original parts that came on the car from the factory, and will fit well when you get things restored and are reassembling. Whenever I have tried to "Frankenstein" a car I've often run into trouble with mismatched parts. The numbers themselves are minor, I agree. It's what they reveal about a given chassis that is important, at least to me.
 
If you replace the frame be sure to get the correct one. 1928 frames have a solid motor mount in front, and this was used until November 1928. The 28-9 frames also have a higher radiator mounting pad than the late 29 to end frames.
 
Why not stamp your numbers into the new frame. Nothing illegal about useing your own numbers. Wayne
 
Last edited:
If your concerns are just sagging, then I gotta tell you that all model A frames sag. It happens at the rear motor mount. It will show by a misalignment of the hood. The bottom of the hood will overlap the radiator shell and a larger gap at the rear of the hood will appear. Model As have been around for almost 90 years and their age is showing. There are methods to repair the sag involving heating and rapidly cooling the frame at the high (Low Point) of of the sag. This method doesn't require anything more than a propane torch and a wet rag, but I've had limited success with it. The method is called "Shrinking".
Terry
 
Terry said:
If your concerns are just sagging, then I gotta tell you that all model A frames sag. It happens at the rear motor mount. It will show by a misalignment of the hood. The bottom of the hood will overlap the radiator shell and a larger gap at the rear of the hood will appear. Model As have been around for almost 90 years and their age is showing. There are methods to repair the sag involving heating and rapidly cooling the frame at the high (Low Point) of of the sag. This method doesn't require anything more than a propane torch and a wet rag, but I've had limited success with it. The method is called "Shrinking".
Terry
Click to expand...

Jumping into could water when you're hot will also cause "shrinking" but the concept is a little different ;)
Z


Z
 
It is worth saving. Because other frames are not to be found anywhere as far as i'm concerned. Even a rusty one sells for $1,500 in my area.
 
The frame will cold straighten quite easily . When I bought my 30 cabriolet the doors and hood were a poor fit . I hung the frame up by one side at first as the frame was bowed sideways as well and used a railroad tie a NOS BB axle shaft as a strong back a length of heavy chain blocks of wood and a 20 ton bottle jack .I then laid it flat to cure the sag . You have to jack way past when the frame looks straight as it will spring back .I have pics of the setup somewhere I will post them if I find them .

John in cool sunny morning Suffolk County England .
 
I haven't tried this, but I'd like to know what FBers think of it. It involves a possible desecration of an original part, however I think it would be a lasting repair. The method is simple. Merely run a few passes of S.S. wire (308 16) on the bottom, inside flange of the frame. S.S. rod pulls more than any other. Problems are possible cracking, Stress and failure at the H.A.Z. (heat affected zone) and the previously mentioned desecration of an original part.
Terry
 
Call me crazy, but, I am going to try to save it!
I have been welding for only a few years,so this project will be mostly to build up my self-confidence before I tackle a "good" Model A.

I had assumed the frame sagged because the bottom stretched, but the top has also shortened by wrinkling. It's also twisted.
frame_wrinkle.JPG


frame_top.JPG
 

Attachments

  • frame_wrinkle.JPG
    frame_wrinkle.JPG
    159.8 KB · Views: 17
  • frame_top.JPG
    frame_top.JPG
    136 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top