Is this babbitt?
- Thread starter retubjb
- Start date
J Franklin
Well-known member
Delete. Bad info,
Last edited:
rotorwrench
Well-known member
There certainly are different formulations for what is referred to as babbitt. The variations in alloys cover a wide range of uses from the small Ford engine bearings clear up to large engine bearings built to power the older ocean going ship in the era before steam turbines took over.
nkaminar
Well-known member
katy
Well-known member
Suggest you take one of the pieces to a scrap metal yard where they have a hand held metal x ray analyser machine, aka xrf metal analyzer. That will tell you what alls in the metal. Precious metal buyers also use these analysers.
https://irss.ca/product-category/sc...MIs5fTkLrT-gIVcimtBh2mPgg7EAAYAiAAEgKdzvD_BwE
https://irss.ca/product-category/sc...MIs5fTkLrT-gIVcimtBh2mPgg7EAAYAiAAEgKdzvD_BwE
Joe K
Well-known member
"Power Nickle Babbitt" is among the best at least outside of Model A Land.
"Magnolia Metal" has nice period victorian bars - but is a true lead babbitt. I MIGHT do a saw arbor in Magnolia.
The Ford Babbitt formula was given by Steve Ross years ago in an online publication "Rebuilding the Model A Engine." I'm not seeing the publication online now which is too bad as Steve had studied out the Ford techniques and practice - and in another document tested and compared techniques. He put a lot of work into research.
He has Ford Babbitt at: 86%tin 7%copper 7%antimony.
He says the only suitable commercially available babbitt to be used on the Model A is 12SAE Babbitt: 89%Tin 7.5%Antimony 3.5%Copper (http://hirschmetals.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/BabbitAlloys.pdf)
Also he says DON'T use babbitt with more than 1/4 of 1 percent as nickle. Avoid altogether if possible. (This is a surprise for me with power plant/turbine experience - but turbine bearings are "pressure lubricated - the main oil pump "lifts" the turbine spindle before rotation. Technically there is no direct contact between journal and bearing.)
Too bad about the document being removed...
EDIT: FOUND the document within a reference here at Fordbarn.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1823977&postcount=6
There is a PDF attachment at the link above. 13 pages.
Joe K
"Magnolia Metal" has nice period victorian bars - but is a true lead babbitt. I MIGHT do a saw arbor in Magnolia.
The Ford Babbitt formula was given by Steve Ross years ago in an online publication "Rebuilding the Model A Engine." I'm not seeing the publication online now which is too bad as Steve had studied out the Ford techniques and practice - and in another document tested and compared techniques. He put a lot of work into research.
He has Ford Babbitt at: 86%tin 7%copper 7%antimony.
He says the only suitable commercially available babbitt to be used on the Model A is 12SAE Babbitt: 89%Tin 7.5%Antimony 3.5%Copper (http://hirschmetals.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/BabbitAlloys.pdf)
Also he says DON'T use babbitt with more than 1/4 of 1 percent as nickle. Avoid altogether if possible. (This is a surprise for me with power plant/turbine experience - but turbine bearings are "pressure lubricated - the main oil pump "lifts" the turbine spindle before rotation. Technically there is no direct contact between journal and bearing.)
Too bad about the document being removed...
EDIT: FOUND the document within a reference here at Fordbarn.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1823977&postcount=6
There is a PDF attachment at the link above. 13 pages.
Joe K
Last edited:
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
Yes it is a grade of babbitt that could be used for the Model A engine. It is not the Ford blend, but will work.
http://nfmetals.com/babbitt-metal/
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/babbittgrades.htm
That being said, pouring babbitt properly is a complicated process based on known science. It is not something to be done sucessfully by an inexperienced person. In fact, there are video showing current engine shops doing babbitt improperly. Babbitt poured improperly will fail in time long before it wears out.
The babbitt you have is likely worth more then the cost of the lead needed to replace weight in the sailboat. There are people that would be happy to pay for it. Oh, shipping is best by USPS one rate boxes.
http://nfmetals.com/babbitt-metal/
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/babbittgrades.htm
That being said, pouring babbitt properly is a complicated process based on known science. It is not something to be done sucessfully by an inexperienced person. In fact, there are video showing current engine shops doing babbitt improperly. Babbitt poured improperly will fail in time long before it wears out.
The babbitt you have is likely worth more then the cost of the lead needed to replace weight in the sailboat. There are people that would be happy to pay for it. Oh, shipping is best by USPS one rate boxes.