Is this 35 steering worm usable?

[Doctor's Ford]

It has been several years since I finished restoring my 1933 Tudor. I want your opinion regarding the condition of this gear that I may have to use.

Before you can comment let me say that my car lives in Paraguay, South America, and is a RHD Tudor. I live in the US and visit every 3 months and bring parts for whatever needs to be fixed. For the last year the steering has shown too much play, to the point I have to constantly turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn both sides alternating trying to keep it steady. Back 10 years ago I rebuilt the box with aftermarket gears. Can't remember where got them.

I have all the information to do a full adjustment and I hope that may be sufficient and resolve the problem but want to be ready in case I need to replace the gears when I travel at the end of February. I already have a new RHD sector shaft from Early Ford Store in San Dimas, CA.

Try finding a new worm RHD 40-3524 !! They don't exist anymore. However, I learned that the LHD 48-3524 from 1935 is identical and will fit the RHD cars. I contacted 10 different vendors, including one in Canada and one in England and this worm number is not available anymore either. So I have some hope that a good old used Ford part may be my best option if I need to replace this gear.

I recently found a complete 1935 steering box here in SD and removed the worm. The direction of the spirals is indeed the opposite and it is the same as the RHD 33-34.

Please look at the pictures and provide some comments if you see evidence that the gear is compromised to the point that the steering play will not be different and therefore not worth trying.

STEERING WORM. 15-1 ratio

There is pitting on top of both ends but the teeth surfaces look very even. Is pitting in this location relevant? I suspect not

[/ATTACH]



Is the metal color important or means anything? The surfaces where there is friction are shiny, I presume that is expected but in several areas the color is almost copper/bronze tone. Just curious if this is relevant


The splines all look fine, should be no problem for mounting

I would appreciate sharing your experience and knowledge. Thank you all.

Manuel

 

[Kurt in NJ]

The copper is part of the heat treating process,
Jut looking you can only look at the bearing race surfaces.
The worm wears more in the center and to know if it is too worn you would have to assemble and adjust the steering gear to see if straight ahead play can be removed without having binding off center.
I would look for NOS, looking at that one the marks on the surface would have me thinking it could be worn( the score mark)

 

[Doctor's Ford]

Thank you Kurt.

I know NOS is best, but again, we are talking about a RHD for a 1933. It is very hard to find a new one.

You suggested looking at the race/bearing seats of the worm. These additional photos taken today show the condition of the worm at the upper and lower seats. Not sure what to look for. If they should be mirror like surfaces it is not the case but photos always exaggerate any minute abnormalities.

Do you think this worm will have lots of play?



View attachment 558104

 

[my4dv8]

Decades ago ,before there was freely available repop stuff , I got an RHD F100 worm that was ok but bearing lands were pitted. Got my skilled machinist to put it in a tool post grinder and turn the lands down a little and found wheel bearings that now fitted. I still have that box.

 

[Brian]

Kiwi ingenuity!!

 

[cas3]

none of your photos show a nice side view of the bearing surface. Ideally, yes, a mirror finish would be best. For the amount of use it will most likely see yours is fine. A couple pits would not be a problem as long as the surface is smooth, no obvious wear "bumps"

You'll know when you set up the bearing clearance/ gasket shims. A few drops of oil on the bearings, set your shims proper, and does it turn smooth, or have some bumpy spots?

Bumpy=junk

 

[Doctor's Ford]

none of your photos show a nice side view of the bearing surface.... Bumpy=junk

Thanks for clarifying which is the area that wears out.

I took several more photos with the side view as you recommended. I labeled the photo where I believe the race/bearing sits on the worm on both ends (correct me if wrong).

The surface is flat and even and has several extremely thin concentric lines that are seen when enlarging photo.

Please comment if you see this worm appears useable or junk.

There are 3 photos of each end so the entire circumference is shown. Manuel




Upper end with race to see where they contact





Upper end 1


Upper end 2


Upper end 3





Lower end with race to see where they contact



Lower end 1


Lower end 2


Lower end 3

 

[Kurt in NJ]

The top race looks good,the lower race looks like it has some pitting
The taper on the ends and the shoulder is where the rollers rest against
Nothing rubs on the copper color area

 

[FlatheadTed]

I have one of these new repoped right hand drive ones so someone must have them .a LH atual 35 , 15 to 1 car cross steer set should work.Ted

 

[Doctor's Ford]

I have one of these new repoped right hand drive ones so someone must have them .a LH atual 35 , 15 to 1 car cross steer set should work.Ted

Ted. All the photos are from a 35 LHD and I am trying to figure out if it is in fair shape to use on my 33 RHD. If you have a new RHD one you can sell, please send me a PM and I will buy it. BTW, received your Brake Kit last week. Manuel

 

[FlatheadTed]

Ted. All the photos are from a 35 LHD and I am trying to figure out if it is in fair shape to use on my 33 RHD. If you have a new RHD one you can sell, please send me a PM and I will buy it. BTW, received your Brake Kit last week. Manuel

C& G have one , Ted

 

[cas3]

You could simply put a bearing on the race, put finger pressure on it, turn it and feel if its smooth or bumpy