Is there a trick to getting the head on?

Rubatoguy

Rubatoguy

Member
I have a '31 Model A with a Model B engine. I am trying to take the engine out for repair. Before I decided to take the engine out, I removed the head. So now I have to place the head back on so I can use the lift that bolts to the head to lift the engine. I tried putting the head back on the block, and it goes on all the way but for about 1/4". I have tried greasing the head studs, and tapping with a rubber mallet, but as far as the head will go is flush with the top of the studs. The studs do seem to be a little thicker near the surface of the head. Is there a trick to getting the head on far enough so that you can put the nuts on the head studs?

thanks,
Todd
 
Most of the time I wrap a nylon rope several times around the intake and water inlet to pull the engine. I also often use an old seat belt in the same location to pull an engine.
 
Well, it's not going to be any easier to install the head after the block is in the car...
Will a head stud pass all the way through each hole in the head? Except for something being damaged, I can't imagine why a head would refuse to go on. It's the getting-off part that gives people trouble...

Doug
 
If you plan to replace the head studs, just slip a link of chain over a stud in the front and one on the back and put a large washer and nut on those studs and forget about the spark plug style puller. Rod
 
BigHammer.jpg
 
Your studs have probably rusted to a diameter thicker than the holes in the head that they go through. (maybe just a couple) Try dressing the studs close to the block taking care not to get crud in the cylinders,etc.
 
if the head came off, it should go on. Possibly a stud got bent. I would chain it to a couple of manifold studs using the washers and nuts and around the water inlet and pull it out that way. hook the chain over cylinder #3 for balance.

then deal with the head problem on a stand. Sounds like a new set of studs might be in order.
 
After dressing the studs all the way down to the block surface I always take the new head gasket and set it to the top of the studs to see if all are aligned to the holes in the gasket. If any do not align, I put an old nut on and hit it with my sledge to line it up. It takes a bit of time to do all of them but the head just slides all the way on by gravity.
 
Wow, thanks for all the great ideas - I will take a look at the studs today and see what I can see. Otherwise I will try the nylon rope. Though I have already taken off the manifolds. It just seems weird that the head would come off and not go back on. It was hard to remove, and the head had many ounces of rust in it.
 
Okay, this will show you why you should not attempt to do things in a hurry and without good light. (excuses, excuses.) It seems the lifting tool that uses the center two spark-plug holes, also contacts two of the head studs. Since I had the tool bolted to the head from my earlier use of it to work the head loose, it was preventing two of the studs to move past the top of the head. So that is why I could not bolt it down. Thankfully I discovered this before I tried any brute-force attempts. Once I removed the lifting tool, the head went right on (also thanks to my dressing the head studs.) So, now I just need to lift it out.
Thanks for all the help.
 
Rubatoguy ...................
Don't forget to dress out the holes in the head, too. You might have some burrs.
MIKE :)
 
Don't worry we have all done those type of things & overlooked the obvious. (at least most of us, there may be a few perfect people out there)
 
Thanks, one thing I have learned is that if I get stuck, to sleep on it overnight for a new perspective. It is when you are frustrated and things are not working that you tend to try things that cause more problems than they solve - at least that is my experience.
 
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