Is there a definitive leatherback top method?

dumb person

dumb person

Well-known member
Tried google, tried the search function on here, but i cannot find the definitive guide to installing the top of the leatherback sedans.
What i would like to know is if the back piece is done with a join in the fabric in the middle of the window or in 3 pieces with a seam either side of the window? Does this make a difference?
Also should the top piece be sewn to the rear piece (If so, what should the join be like? Or should the rear piece be tacked on and then the top piece over the top? That might be easier but might leak through capillary action?
Do these things matter? Or should i strive to be correct?
 
I haven't installed a top, but my fordor (original top) has the back seams on both sides of rear window. I don't think the back is sewn to the top, and would think the top would overlap the back. You could always carefully ad a sealer between the two, that wouldn't be seen after the hideum welting was installed.
 
My Fordor leatherback also has the seam on each side of the rear window, the hideum covers the one across the top. Mine was done in the 50's and will need to be replaced in the not too distant futore. It looks to me like a job I'm not looking forward to...
 
i did my victoria L.B. top kit, took a lot of hours, a good guy from a restoration shop gave me some pointers on how to install.helped a lot so did the service bulletins ,call L.B they were not much help.going to try to print up a how i did it sheet.
 
Search youtube for videos by "bintibet74" or "1928 Ford leatherback restoration“ they restored one few years back, it shows some top work.
 
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Believe all the "leatherback" Ford A's (including the Special Coupe) had the vertical seams at the ends of the rear window, and the topping is in two pieces: top piece from windshield header back to seam across roof ( at/behind rearmost door pillar or quarter window), then the rear section which runs from the roof seam down to the belt-line.

Most top kits come with the sewing already done.

I have read in several posts on the subject that installing the sedan decking (old-time term for it) is best done on a warm, sunny day.

The most challenging part is getting the material stretched evenly around the curved upper corner of the roof section.

Good luck !

SC Frank
 
I added a link to an album I just created with photos of my 28 Leatherback top.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album.php?albumid=2055

The top was worn but I didn’t want to replace it on my driver car. It may be the original top but I am not sure since I think all the 28 Leatherbacks were built with a brown top. My top may have been painted when the body color was changed. The interior is original.

I gently cleaned the top and then rubbed a water based paintable caulk into the top filling the cracks and small scrapes. I then painted it with two coats of Sherwin Williams black enamel paint. It turned out looking pretty good for a driver car.

Good luck with your project. You should be able to see the seams in the photos.
Supergnat
 
Supergnat, if that's your daily driver, your "Special Occasion" car must be a real beauty. That car (and the top) look great.

Richard
 
Richard,
Perhaps my term was misleading. By "driver" I meant that this is not a points car. I just enjoy driving it around from time to time for parades, car shows, and just for fun with the grand kids. I always get great reactions when I take it through the bank drive through window.

Thanks for the compliments. Hopefully others who also cannot afford a new top will benefit from a repaint.
Supergnat
 
Your top looked good before painting
picture.php

The top shown in the next picture may be beyond painting
picture.php
Do you like the ventilation holes? Makes for a great sunroof though
 
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The cool peoples cars have only 1 join in the top corner
picture.php

But my template does, seems i cannot make it work without that little second join see the picture?
l.jpg

Where did i go wrong?
 
Part of the issue might be that the original sedan-decking material has some "stretch" to it... possibly making it easier to cover curves than the material I see in your photo (plastic tarp?)... ???

Most top installation references I see here recommend installing the topping on a warm, sunny day, preferably in the summer; otherwise stretching the top material will be more difficult.

My guess...
 
Try making your pattern with the seams where they are on the original roofing...

The two front-to-back seam runs from the windshield header all the way over the back panel, down to the belt line, below the rear window.

The cross-ways seam at the upper rear edge of the roof turn the corner and heads towards the front of the car at a 45 * angle (more or less).

Ford put the seams where they did because that's where it worked best...


That's a challenging bit of pattern-making, with the covering being in one piece...
 
dumb person said:
Any idea which should i could cut the final top to eliminate that crease & still have stretchability?
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First, virtually all modern day fabrics have more stretch than the originals. All fabrics that have ANY movement at all move or stretch the most by far on the bias (diagonally). That plays a major role in understanding how these are patterned. What you are seeing applies to every top with a compound curve or convertible top with bows.

I've thought about it a bit and can't think of any way to describe or explain how to pattern a top and why it works. EXPERIENCE MATTERS! It also brought to mind many of the homegrown leatherback tops I've seen and just found it best to bite my tongue.
 
I know it is a bit late to jump in, but I just finished putting a top on my recently acquired 1929 Leatherback. Several good friends from our club helped me put a kit top on mine and it turned out great. I would not try to do it without the kit! The kit comes with the top and sides already stitched together and removes the seam that so many cars have that runs along the top from the top of the rear door to the corner. I think it looks better without that seam IMHO.

A few things learned:

Make sure the rear window wood frame is smooth. You have to pull pretty hard on the material to make the rounded corners and ANY imperfections will show through.

Add any kind of wood you can to the seam where the top meets the metal on the rear of the car. Finding wood to nail the material to between the tabs and then going back over it with hidem is TOUGH! Also if there is a gap between the metal and the original wood it will cause the tacks to pull in and wrinkle the material.

My top looks great, but mostly due to some really patient friends (and several beers). I have some pictures if it would help, just let me know.
 
TimM said:
"Make sure the rear window wood frame is smooth. You have to pull pretty hard on the material to make the rounded corners and ANY imperfections will show through."

" I have some pictures if it would help, just let me know."
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i put the top on but noticed something is wrong, i cannot see behind me. No rear window. Do you have an idea of how i should cut the hole for the rear window? A distance from the edge of the window hole? That would be helpful.
 
No? no tips on the rear window? No ideal widths or cutting pattern?? Should i glue the vinyl down as well or just nail it?
 
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