Irregular Signal Flashing

Patrick L. said:
I know I shouldn't respond. But, Why paint or hide a bulb when higher candle power bulbs can be used for the front turn lights as previously mentioned and you'll be more visible from the front to others too.
I'll recommend once more getting a NOS 535 flasher.
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Patrick L.,

While I really enjoy Model As, I am certainly no expert, which is why I’ve been posting questions. I do appreciate your responses. Please believe me. I would be HAPPY to find NOS flashers. However, I just haven’t been able to find such unicorns. All of the 535 flashers I’ve found online seem to be new (probably counterfeits), not NOS that you recommended. I’m still very new to Model As, and I have a lot to learn.

If you could post links *and* part numbers to suppliers of NOS flashers and higher candle bulbs, I would be grateful. (I don’t know if I have higher candle bulbs already or not.) Otherwise, I’m just flailing away until I find something that eventually works. If I am annoying you, it is NOT intentional.


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Patrick L. said:
That appears to be one.



I won't be home for awhile so I can't go look at my stuff. I believe if memory serves Bratton # 18480 is a 10cp bulb for cowl and park lights.
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Patrick L.,

Thank you. I ordered it.


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You don't have to use a bulb to function the flasher. A hidden resistor would do the same thing. At least that way a person could get their instrument light back.

The old Echlin/Bear coils from back in the early hot rodding days used a light bulb for a ballast resistor. It didn't last as long as a regular resistor and a person had to carry extra bulbs around in case one died. Not the best idea in the world.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Echlin-6V-...Rod-Rat-IC-55-Coil-Vintage-Ford-/114049014566
 
rotorwrench said:
You don't have to use a bulb to function the flasher. A hidden resistor would do the same thing. At least that way a person could get their instrument light back.
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rotorwrench,

Is it a pretty common thing for the dash light to be used as a load resistor in Model As when a previous owner installs LED taillights?
 
fuzes45 said:
Be sure to ground the pigtail wire on the flasher to chassis ground.


Same one i installed


Bob f
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That was the only way I got the electronic flasher to work at all. If the pigtail was not grounded , it would not flash at all. It worked fine with the motor off, but was very erratic with the engine running.

I returned it.


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The pigtail provides positive power to the circuitry, needs both poles connected.

Been thinking - I doubt the circuit is sensitive to RFI, but would be affected by voltage spikes. You may have been able to fix it by replacing the distributor capacitor.

I bought a 535 from Snyder's a while back, works fine. I had bought one on ebay that would just fast-flash. Opened it up and found a transistor inside, would have worked for negative ground - wrong one for positive. I"m sure all 535s these days use a transistor, so you have to make sure you get one for the correct polarity.
 
If your system is 12 volt, the flasher I found that really works is from Superbrightleds.com their part # FL3-RED. I just replaced the thermal flasher I had and it works perfectly, although it makes no noise to warn you that it is on.
 
CarlG said:
If your system is 12 volt, the flasher I found that really works is from Superbrightleds.com their part # FL3-RED. I just replaced the thermal flasher I had and it works perfectly, although it makes no noise to warn you that it is on.
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My car is 6 volt positive ground. Thanks for sharing.


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Patrick L. said:
That Ideal flasher is no good !? Sorry to hear that. I guess thats a problem sometimes with eBay. I guess you need another one. It will work with a good 535 flasher and 10cp front bulbs. You're having a heck of a problem with something that shouldn't be a problem.
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We just got back home and I checked some of my stuff. I don't have a flasher for you. I would have sent you one. I have a couple newer ones I've marked NFG, I guess I hate to throw stuff away.
 
Patrick L. said:
We just got back home and I checked some of my stuff. I don't have a flasher for you. I would have sent you one. I have a couple newer ones I've marked NFG, I guess I hate to throw stuff away.
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Thanks anyway. I appreciate it.


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Here's what you need:

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...-6-VOLT-BI-POLAR?fromCategory=SearchByKeyword

https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY?tag=atomicindus08-20

Snyder sells the same resistors for a lot more. They each pull about 1 amp, enough to trigger the flasher. A 21 CP bulb pulls about 3A, so you still save power.

I would connect the resistors between LF/RF and ground. That way they wouldn't draw the extra current while braking.

You might want to buy a 4-pack, the 6 ohm ones are used on 12V systems and 1 amp may not be enough to operate the 6V flasher. You can connect 2 of them in parallel to make 3 ohms. Also mount them to a frame member as they get rather hot (at least at 12V).

https://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-6Ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00E4WWZOY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or go the easy route with 10CP bulbs in front, like PatrickL suggested. They draw about 1.7A, which should be enough. They don't come in colors, but amber lenses are available if that's what you like.
 
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