Interior Insulation

Mikeinnj

Mikeinnj

Well-known member
I am restoring a 30' Closed Cab Pick-up and am considering installing sound deadening / insulation material to the floor pan, doors, cowls, and behind the seat.

Has anyone had any experience with this and what material and adhesive did you use, and was it effective in cutting down sound ?.

Thanks, Mike
 
Mike, I used Dynamat Extreme to cover the floors and inside of the doors on my '55 Ranchwagon. Really made a difference in road and engine noise.Dynamat Have not used it in my A Sedan but thinking about adding some under the seats and behind the rear seat to start. Maybe add some in the doors later.

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I use the cowl insulator panel in a couple of my 30-31s . it seems to keep interior temps down some in hot summer use. it sure doesn't hurt. The muffler shield and gutted muffler helps also.
 
A search here will also show the insulation sold at the home improvement stores has also been success,

Noise reduction is an important goal in my restoration of a 190A Victoria Coupe. However, automotive materials for this purpose are very expensive and excessively heavy. The following is a less expensive and lighter alternative that should make a significant reduction in road and running gear noise inside of the car..

To reduce the dynamic response of the body panels to road and running gear vibrations, and to dampen airborne sounds I have chosen two inexpensive materials to install before upholstering the car: (1) Roofing shingle; (2) HVAC duct insulation.

Roofing shingle has a significant mass (weight). Cut the shingle into 3" x 6" rectangles (dollar bill size), and stick one in the center of each body panel and door panel (interior side). To assure the rectangle sticks, clean the panel with lacquer thinner, and use a thick dab of construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails.

Once glued to a panel, the mass of the shingle adds to the mass of the panel, so it reduces the panels vibration response (drumming noise) to outside stimulus.

Frost King FV516 Duct Insulation by Thermnwell Products Company Inc is a product that thermally insulates and stops vibrations on HVAC ducts. It is available in the big box home goods stores such as Home Depot and Lowes. FV516 is a sandwich of foil and foam with an adhesive backing, and an R Value of 3. The stock size of one package of FV516 is 12" wide x 1/8" thick x 15' long, and it has a unit retail price of $18.77. Two packages will do my 190A, so three packages should do a Fordor.

Completely line the interior surface area of each body and door panel with the FV516 using dabs of construction adhesive in the corners to keep it in place.
__________________
Bob Bidonde
 
Mike,
I had to reupholster the entire inside of my 31 Tudor. I ordered a complete Lebaron Bonney kit with the complete insulation kit which includes Dynamat and the foil faced insulation. It was easy to install as all the pieces are cut to size. They provided the adhesive and seaming tape.

It made a huge difference in the noise level while driving the car. It really cut the noise. I would highly recommend doing the insulation if you are reupholstering the car. It was well worth the $450.00 I spent on the kit.
 
Have over 55 years of hands on experience with Aluminum Foil Radiant Barrier Materials.

If one would read up on the internet on Aluminum Radiant Barriers, one would find that aluminum foil with a minimum adjacent 3/4" air space can:

1. Reflect 97% of inside heat during winter to keep the Model A cab warm; &,

2. Reduce outside heat from entering a cab in summertime by not emitting 97% of outside heat just like that of Low-E glass.

With no sufficient air space adjacent to the aluminum foil, e.g.,aluminum foil sandwiched between a floor board & a floor mat, or sandwiched between two pieces of plywood, heat reflection is equal to zero (0) & heat emission reduction is equal to zero (0).

Dynomat, B-Quiet, & others have aluminum foil faced sound deadening/heat reflecting materials which work well.

Again, aluminum foil heat reflection & aluminum foil heat emission reduction will work "only" when installed immediately adjacent to an air space.

If one doubles sound deadening materials in certain places, one can more than double the sound reduction -- B-Quiet has written material & instructions for same.

Hope this helps.

I successfully used B-Quiet. Their staff was very knowledgeable on what to use & where to use it.
 
In high school I brushed a layer of roofing tar on the floor of my 55 Chevy 4 door, then layed down two layers of tar paper, then jute padding and carpet. That was a very quiet car. In fact people reported it was quieter than their new Cadillac. I wonder where that car is now?
 
Reduced Fire Wall Heat & Sound Transmission -- Just one experience to share:

1. Provide foil faced sound deadening on the in-side of the fire wall, (with aluminum foil facing inside).

2. Then provide small 3/4" wood spacers between this aluminum foil & the manufactured fire wall insulating panel at panel fastener locations.

3. The sound deadening material deadens the thin metal fire wall vibrations, & the aluminum foil greatly reduces the engine's & manifold's radiant heat emission by 97% with the required 3/4" air space.

4. The above occurs prior to installing the manufactured inside fire wall insulating panel which will absorb the already greatly reduced sound effects & reduced heat.

5. This application not only reduces engine heat transmission in summer, but results include greatly improving the sound transmission coefficient, known as the (STC) rating between the engine compartment & the interior cab.

6. Then in winter, with a closed cab, the aluminum foil on the sound deadening material with the adjacent 3/4" air space reflects 97% of the extra increased heat provided by various types of Model A heaters inside the cab.

Hope this helps.
 
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Tom, I like the sound of what you did in that Chev but roof tar? What is that? I doubt it or tar paper are available here in Oz. I'll give it some thought and research to see what I can find in shops today - there must be something about.
This reminds me of how as a kid in the 60's, a friend and I used to joke that we could fix anything with sealing wax and string. We agreed recently that we had to move on. Now we'll use duct tape and silicone!!!
 
I installed the sandwiched aluminum foil on top of the floor boards under the rubber floor mat,I should install it under the wooden floor boards?
 
Synchro909 said:
Tom, I like the sound of what you did in that Chev but roof tar? What is that? I doubt it or tar paper are available here in Oz. I'll give it some thought and research to see what I can find in shops today - there must be something about.
This reminds me of how as a kid in the 60's, a friend and I used to joke that we could fix anything with sealing wax and string. We agreed recently that we had to move on. Now we'll use duct tape and silicone!!!
Click to expand...

Roofing tar, pine tar, liquid asphalt - pretty much the same stuff. Extremely sticky stuff that hardens like a rock. Molasses has similar properties.
 
Roofing tar, pine tar, liquid asphalt - pretty much the same stuff. Extremely sticky stuff that hardens like a rock. Molasses has similar properties.
Thanks, Seaslugs. I'll have to ask around to find any of those things. The spray-on sound deadeners available are a ridiculous price.
We use molasses to remove rust but if you leave the part in it too long, good bye component - it is dissolved. Not sure about using molasses for sound deadening purpose.
 
yea i wouldnt for that purpose either! im just saying it behaves like it where at normal temperatures its pretty thick.

do you guys have vehicle undercoating in a spray can? or flex seal? comes out like bubbily road tar but instantly hardens and dries to a flexable but sticks to everything layer. it does smell like fresh asphalt so let the car air out if you go this route...Very hard to remove if the prep is right (loose paint/grease/oil/dirt free)
 
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