Interior door and rear penel patterns

pbsdaddy

pbsdaddy

Member
Someone had mentioned, on a now deleted post, about there being interior panel patterns available at a particular site. I have not been able to find the site or the patterns. Can anyone link to it, pleas?
 
When I did my 36 interior, I used double stick tape and tracing paper. I got a perfect copy of what the door panel needed to be. I cut it out of some ABS plastic sheet. All the hole locations worked out as they should have.
Too easy really, and cheap too!
 
I also cut them out of some plastic sheet... available at home improvement store in 4 foot by 8 foot sheets.(Lowes). Like plastic corrugated cardboard. Worked great!
 
That may be an option. My upholsterer has a small shop and no where to store my car. At the outset, he said he could do everything with the car in my garage. However he has changed his mind. With no where to store it, except outside, there is n way he getting the car.
 
Helpful to mention what year. From your avatar the Early Ford V8 Club 35-36 restoration book has what you want.
 
The book from The Early V-8 Club arrive the other day. It does have patterns depicted, but they are stitch patterns, not panel patterns. I guess a trip to Lowes is in the offing. I think the next question will be: How do you know how much excess to leave, along the outside of the plastic, to accommodate the material and padding? Did you wrap the material over the sheet or fold it tack it on the outside of the plastic?
 
Seth Swoboda said:
I'm curious as to where you are sourcing authentic material fabric from?
Click to expand...

Why do I feel you already know, "authentic", material is next to non-existent? I don't think I said a word about "authentic" material. However, there are sources for "look-a-like", materials. SMS may still have some available. Then there are others advertising "mohair". https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/j...m_term=2332888796470258&utm_content=JB Martin https://www.etsy.com/listing/834600...5672&msclkid=2e4c1a08bc2c156cb43c7db70885814a Since I am still working on getting the correct panel pattern, I have not purchased any material, yet.
 
Sorry for the delayed response... I was on another project.

RE: 'I think the next question will be: How do you know how much excess to leave, along the outside of the plastic, to accommodate the material and padding? Did you wrap the material over the sheet or fold it tack it on the outside of the plastic?'

I wrapped the material over the sheet and folded it back on the backside which covers the corrugated plastic sheeting edges very well.

I did not have any templates to work from at all so I just placed some heavy card stock cardboard against the inside of the doors and sketched and cut until I had a workable template. Each door took a couple of tries but I soon had what I needed. This, I then used as my template for marking up the corrugated plastic sheeting. That sheeting was easy to cut with a sharp box cutter. I placed the the corrugated plastic sheeting onto a plywood base up on my work table and just cut slowly after marking it up with a Sharpie marker.

Another trick I used was after marking all of the spots for the door panel clips in each of the corrugated plastic sheeting panels... (I chose to use nylon clips vs the original metal clips...) and placed them thru each corrugated plastic sheeting panel hole. I then used toolbox drawer liner foam rubber over the corrugated plastic sheeting which covered the nylon clip heads very well so they would be well hidden and not shown thru the fabric covering. This foam rubber sheeting is between the corrugated plastic sheeting and the fabric material covering. It also added another layer of insulation and sound proofing.

All this to say that about two years out it has held up very well for me.
 
ScubaChief60 said:
Sorry for the delayed response... I was on another project.

RE: 'I think the next question will be: How do you know how much excess to leave, along the outside of the plastic, to accommodate the material and padding? Did you wrap the material over the sheet or fold it tack it on the outside of the plastic?'

I wrapped the material over the sheet and folded it back on the backside which covers the corrugated plastic sheeting edges very well.

I did not have any templates to work from at all so I just placed some heavy card stock cardboard against the inside of the doors and sketched and cut until I had a workable template. Each door took a couple of tries but I soon had what I needed. This, I then used as my template for marking up the corrugated plastic sheeting. That sheeting was easy to cut with a sharp box cutter. I placed the the corrugated plastic sheeting onto a plywood base up on my work table and just cut slowly after marking it up with a Sharpie marker.

Another trick I used was after marking all of the spots for the door panel clips in each of the corrugated plastic sheeting panels... (I chose to use nylon clips vs the original metal clips...) and placed them thru each corrugated plastic sheeting panel hole. I then used toolbox drawer liner foam rubber over the corrugated plastic sheeting which covered the nylon clip heads very well so they would be well hidden and not shown thru the fabric covering. This foam rubber sheeting is between the corrugated plastic sheeting and the fabric material covering. It also added another layer of insulation and sound proofing.

All this to say that about two years out it has held up very well for me.
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I, for one, would love to see your end results. I have thought about the cardstock idea, but wasn't settled on exactly what to transfer it to. Post up a couple pics!
 
There has got to be a reason I am missing about not using a very thin Masonite or Luan type material. Is it moisture? I'm in need of all four door panels form my 42 Mercury and was planning on the same process. Cut a heavy Kraft paper template, presume the two doors are mirror images of each other, so one template for front and one for rear. Drill handle holes and drill clip holes, cover with fabric and thin foam padding for a nice soft cushion, wrap around the door panel and glue the backside all the way around. Trim strips would be drilled through the fabric and board and bent over to hold them in place.
But, in my case, I've got to figure out the door handle mounting.
 
1/8" ABS sheet from a plastic distributor works well. Grained pattern on one side & slick on the other. Easy to work work with and can be bent/curved if needed with a heat gun. No moisture problems either.
 
For me it is the moisture problem and the nature of the congregation in the material I used gave it strength and more insulating and soundproofing it seems.

Now I should say the door panels on my '35 are flat... no curves at all so that may be a reason to consider other materials if that is in the mix. :)
 
signsup said:
There has got to be a reason I am missing about not using a very thin Masonite or Luan type material. Is it moisture? I'm in need of all four door panels form my 42 Mercury and was planning on the same process. Cut a heavy Kraft paper template, presume the two doors are mirror images of each other, so one template for front and one for rear. Drill handle holes and drill clip holes, cover with fabric and thin foam padding for a nice soft cushion, wrap around the door panel and glue the backside all the way around. Trim strips would be drilled through the fabric and board and bent over to hold them in place.
But, in my case, I've got to figure out the door handle mounting.
Click to expand...

In my case, some of the original panels were used for a, "redo", in about 1970. Some of the panels are another kind of hardboard. Both have rotted out from moisture intrusion. To me, the use of a plastic sounds like a solution to every issue. Easy to use, easy to cut and shape. Accepts just about any glue and strong enough to support the material and hold up at the pin locations.
 
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