Interest in new restoration project thread?

Thanks Kube, I hadn't thought about removing the inner structure from the outer structure of the trunk lid. My 37 trunk lid will need some repairs, due to earlier modifications by a previous owner and a little rust. Are the two attached by spot welds around the edge?

This is not as easy as simply removing welds as the outer structure is formed over the inner. I grind away the edge on three sides and remove the inner that way. There are a few (many) cuss words spoken beneath my breath while doing this. As I tend to weld up the edges of the lid to fit the body as perfectly as possible, well, grinding away that edge is no big deal for me.
 
Wow, not for the faint of heart. Do you use filler metal to create a new edge then? I remember from one of your earlier posts that you reworked the trunk lid to make them fit better. With apologies to Paul Harvey, now for the rest of the story...

Thanks for taking us along on this project, beautiful work.
 
Wow, not for the faint of heart. Do you use filler metal to create a new edge then? I remember from one of your earlier posts that you reworked the trunk lid to make them fit better. With apologies to Paul Harvey, now for the rest of the story...

Thanks for taking us along on this project, beautiful work.

Nope... I weld the entire edge. That's not difficult but very time consuming.
 
I've had a few guys ask me what I use for sound deadening, etc. I have always used the foil lined insulation available at any decent builder supply house. Very economical, holds up extremely well and is easy to install.
I also install a moisture barrier on the doors. I was taught to do this by an "old timer" that owned and operated an upholstery shop for better than fifty years.
The barrier is most likely not necessary, especially considering these cars rarely, if ever get driven and certainly not in rain!

Still, can't hurt...
 

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I've had a few guys ask me what I use for sound deadening, etc. I have always used the foil lined insulation available at any decent builder supply house. Very economical, holds up extremely well and is easy to install.
I also install a moisture barrier on the doors. I was taught to do this by an "old timer" that owned and operated an upholstery shop for better than fifty years.
The barrier is most likely not necessary, especially considering these cars rarely, if ever get driven and certainly not in rain!

Still, can't hurt...

Do you put a couple layers or just one piece?
 
I have been so very negligent in keeping up with this thread. For that I apologize.
Seems that life (in general) and restoring another '40 convertible simultaneously with this coupe also kinda gets in the way.

Anyways, the coupe is coming along nicely. And, although I've stated this in the past, I'm gonna do it again... I really prefer colored bodies vs. black as the detail found in the contrast just makes me smile.
 

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Definitely always great to see guys who want to keep 40's alive and I appreciate being able to see more of the one car I really love on the road. My hat's off to you and your fine work. It must be exhausting finding parts to restore one. Nothing prettier than 32 and 40 Fords.
 
Little by little.
 

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Thanks for the bench mark photos Mike, How do you keep your fastener finishes from getting marred up??? Do you tape your screwdriver ends, box ends???



Thanks in advanced
Rockfla
 
Looking good! I sure do like the contrasting colors, both on the underside of the car and fasteners; looks sharp.
 
Robert,


I only use six point sockets and box wrenches and only new or near new screw drivers. Perhaps Mike does something similar. I also spray all of the S2 finish fasteners with silicone before installing them to inhibit oxidation.
 
Robert,


I only use six point sockets and box wrenches and only new or near new screw drivers. Perhaps Mike does something similar. I also spray all of the S2 finish fasteners with silicone before installing them to inhibit oxidation.

Dave, Ya beat me to a response. Of course you being younger and faster surely helped.
Like you, I use six point sockets and box wrenches whenever possible. Screw drivers get tossed or turned in to an alignment tool as soon as the blade wears.
I apply a light coat of satin black to my S2 stuff.
 
A always, I am very impressed with your work.

You have set a standard that most should aspire to.
 
Managed to get the hood on and aligned yesterday. More baby steps...
 

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Mike:
I lost your e-mail address & phone no. We met at Charlotte NC at the 75th
Ford Show! would love to chat wen you have time!
mickey25381
e-mail: mickeying@comcast.net
phone: (276) 252-4650
Health has improved and want to finish my 40 project'
Thanks for the new Book
 
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