Interest in new restoration project thread?

[Kube]

Kube,

Was your carburetor done by Charlie ny, or did you restore it ? Were they that natural color originally ? I ask, because I've seen some later NOS Holley two barrel carbs from '55 and '56 that had been di-chromated a pale green'ish color.

Thanks, Sal

Sal, I do have Charlie build my carbs. The one on this car was NOS but obviously still needed a rebuild. I mention that as the "color" is stock.
The authentic plating for 1939 - 1940 was pretty much what you see on this car. However, as you know better than most, there were slight variations. I've seen some NOS carbs that has a slight pinkish tint and others a slight bluish tint.
Perhaps what I see as bluish, you see as greenish.

 

[Kube]

Kube, that is a big help. I have been trying to butt weld my patches in with a 110v MIG machine. I usually go one spot at a time and jump around to allow the welds to cool. Lately I have been having more problems with blowing a hole in the base metal, even with the welder set as low as it will go. Then I end up with a mess trying to fill the hole.

Every little bit of information helps, thanks.

Heck, don't get discouraged. As long as I've been doing this I still occasionally will blow a hole through some sheet metal.
What size wire are you using?
Oxygen tank? Argon?

 

[Zeke3]

I am using 0.023" wire with Argon/CO2 mix.

 

[scicala]

Sal, I do have Charlie build my carbs. The one on this car was NOS but obviously still needed a rebuild. I mention that as the "color" is stock.
The authentic plating for 1939 - 1940 was pretty much what you see on this car. However, as you know better than most, there were slight variations. I've seen some NOS carbs that has a slight pinkish tint and others a slight bluish tint.
Perhaps what I see as bluish, you see as greenish.

Thank you for the reply. That helps a lot.

Sal

 

[rockfla]

Hey Kube


Do you do the interiors NOW that LB is no longer???

 

[Kube]

Hey Kube


Do you do the interiors NOW that LB is no longer???

Nope, not yet anyway.
I bought a few interior kits from LB about a year before they announced their impending implosion.
Not certain how many more restorations I'll be doing. Of course I was saying that 12 - 14 cars ago

 

[Kube]

A little more progress that without a fellow Barn member (Mike D.) I am not so certain I could have accomplished.
Thanks Mike D.

 

[Tinker]

Look closer at the "before" photo and you'll note the entire thing (floor) had been cut apart and welded (with a coat hanger I believe).

But there was a floor to start with. You always do great top knotch work. Wasn't a dig.

 

[deuce_roadster]

Mike, thanks for the shout out! Was more then happy to assist you with some information and measurements.
Mike D. aka deuce_roadster.

 

[Kube]

Here's why I prefer to paint the cars in color... I really enjoy the contrast, especially beneath the car.

 

[Zeke3]

I can see your point on the contrast between the chassis and the body.

 

[fordor]

Is the tool tray lined with the same material used to insulate the inside of the trunk lid on a 40? If so, do you have a picture of a completed tool tray area?
Thanks,
Bob L.

 

[Kube]

Is the tool tray lined with the same material used to insulate the inside of the trunk lid on a 40? If so, do you have a picture of a completed tool tray area?
Thanks,
Bob L.

Yes sir, the same material. The photo attached is from a '39 coupe I'd restored. Same as a '40 in this regard.

 

[Kube]

Is the tool tray lined with the same material used to insulate the inside of the trunk lid on a 40? If so, do you have a picture of a completed tool tray area?
Thanks,
Bob L.

Bob, Here's a couple from this particular car.

 

[fordor]

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. By the way, great restoration. I appreciate you sharing the process with everyone, its great.

 

[Kube]

Working on two restorations now so the progress on the coupe has slowed a bit. I did manage to get both doors installed. Latches, weather-strips, etc. all in and fit well.
Got the trunk lid installed today along with the associated pieces.
Welded the vertical sides up perhaps 3/16". Looks so much better than the factory fit in relation to the body. Very time consuming but worth the effort in my opinion.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

.

For the rest of us mere mortals, try to imagine how Mike gets that brand new black insulation material between the stamped bracing and the outer skin.....wrinkle-free, no less! I'll say it again....the guy is an ANIMAL! DD

 

[funrunr]

.

For the rest of us mere mortals, try to imagine how Mike gets that brand new black insulation material between the stamped bracing and the outer skin.....wrinkle-free, no less! I'll say it again....the guy is an ANIMAL! DD

Yes, how is that done? I have the new material but couldn't figure out how to install without cutting into a million pieces.
Beautiful work Mike.

 

[Kube]

Yes, how is that done? I have the new material but couldn't figure out how to install without cutting into a million pieces.
Beautiful work Mike.

Not as difficult as it may appear. When I have the inner structure removed from the outer lid, I install the "paper". I back tape (mask) it for later painting purposes.
Keep in mind this part is most certainly over restoring. Ford, like myself, placed the insulation between the inner and outer structures. However, Ford did not mask the paper. They painted right over it. Over the years much of the authentic paint was absorbed and / or simply flaked off.

The difficult part (not too bad really) is splicing the insulation where it (seams) can't be detected.
Drake reproduces this insulation - it is VERY nice. However, in this instance, the repop stuff isn't wide enough and thus, must be spliced.

 

[Zeke3]

Thanks Kube, I hadn't thought about removing the inner structure from the outer structure of the trunk lid. My 37 trunk lid will need some repairs, due to earlier modifications by a previous owner and a little rust. Are the two attached by spot welds around the edge?