Lawson Cox
Well-known member
At 89 I'm still interested in the process but sadly I just can't do the physical work anymore. I'm looking forward to your progress.
Interest in new restoration project thread?
- Thread starter Kube
- Start date
At 89 I'm still interested in the process but sadly I just can't do the physical work anymore. I'm looking forward to your progress.
Kube
Super Moderator
I keep moving forward. Bouncing around a little just to keep it fun.
Even though I have the patterns from Ford for the tool tray liners, it's still quite the task to install them neatly.
I'd painted a lot of "little" parts the other day. Grille louvers, trunk lid supports, hood hinges, etc. Also got the rear side of the doors painted. Tomorrow I'll paint the outside of the doors.
Once I get the doors sanded and polished, I'll hang them and adjust the body (pads) as might be necessary.
I always test fit everything at least once. I only place a thin piece of webbing between the frame and body when fitting. Once the body has been painted and polished, I install the correct pads between the body and frame.
With all the test fitting, I have yet to have a car go together without at least a tiny bit of shimming.
Even though I have the patterns from Ford for the tool tray liners, it's still quite the task to install them neatly.
I'd painted a lot of "little" parts the other day. Grille louvers, trunk lid supports, hood hinges, etc. Also got the rear side of the doors painted. Tomorrow I'll paint the outside of the doors.
Once I get the doors sanded and polished, I'll hang them and adjust the body (pads) as might be necessary.
I always test fit everything at least once. I only place a thin piece of webbing between the frame and body when fitting. Once the body has been painted and polished, I install the correct pads between the body and frame.
With all the test fitting, I have yet to have a car go together without at least a tiny bit of shimming.
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
They certainly don't stay in like new condition without taking the steps to preserve them that way. It isn't often that any car gets to start over like this. An easy button is not in the picture for full on restorations. I sure wish it was but wishing doesn't get the job done.
rockfla
Well-known member
It might be a stupid question here Mike BUT are you shimming to achieve "Gap" integrity?? AND even after all of your test fitting you still find on most project you still have to shim??
Kube
Super Moderator
Not a stupid question whatsoever.
Rarely is it necessary to actually shim to achieve the final (acceptable) gaps. Typically I may have to pull one mounting bolt down a bit more or back one off.
I have had to (frequently) scrape paint away from the back of a door hinge(s) where it fastened to body.
Hard to believe even after all of these projects that the paint thickness can make a difference in the gap.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Interesting subject! Paint can cause several points of consideration in an automobile, like what Kube states above. Many of us have found-out the hard way that paint can insulate electrical GROUND circuits or surfaces. And interestingly, depending on how much painted surface, and how many coats and what types have been applied to such, you can end-up adding some noticeable weight to a vehicle. It's not unheard of, depending on paint scheme, for some of the largest wide-body airline type aircraft to end-up with over a thousand pounds of paint being applied to one airplane. DD
Kube
Super Moderator
Kind of been "bouncing around" on this project in the past week or so.
I did manage to get the inside of the rear fenders painted and plan on shooting the outside on Tuesday. Doors are painted on both sides and the hood only needs to be tacked and squirted.
Got a lot of the engine built up.
Once the rear fenders are painted, I'll buff the doors and fenders and hang the doors.
I did manage to get the inside of the rear fenders painted and plan on shooting the outside on Tuesday. Doors are painted on both sides and the hood only needs to be tacked and squirted.
Got a lot of the engine built up.
Once the rear fenders are painted, I'll buff the doors and fenders and hang the doors.
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Kube
Super Moderator
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NICE, Kubarth! And look at that nice clean, shiny GROUNDING surface for the starter on the painted oil pan....just one of a bazillion details NOT to be overlooked. Looks like another one knocked "out of the park" from Kube Acres. Just beautiful!! DD
Thanks Coopman,
This one has been fun for the most part. I've never done a Folkstone Gray coupe before.
As soon as this one is near completion, I'll be starting on another '40 convertible.
Kube
Super Moderator
Hey, it's been about eight weeks since I'd posted on this thread. Nope, the restoration has not been completed. However, I've made a lot of progress.
Headliner is in, trunk is trimmed out, rear 'seating area" is nearly trimmed. Oh, all the painting is done except the trunk lid.
I wasn't quite happy with the way the lid fit so welded up both sides (vertical edges) adding about 1/8" to the lip on each side. I'm glad in retrospect i took the time as the lid now fits beautifully. The latch catches under the weight of the lid alone.
Headliner is in, trunk is trimmed out, rear 'seating area" is nearly trimmed. Oh, all the painting is done except the trunk lid.
I wasn't quite happy with the way the lid fit so welded up both sides (vertical edges) adding about 1/8" to the lip on each side. I'm glad in retrospect i took the time as the lid now fits beautifully. The latch catches under the weight of the lid alone.
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rufus39
Senior Member
. Me too !!! Mike, Sheeza lookin mighty fine !
Kube
Super Moderator
Look closer at the "before" photo and you'll note the entire thing (floor) had been cut apart and welded (with a coat hanger I believe).
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Zeke3
Well-known member
Kube, so did you cut the panels out and TIG or MIG weld the panels back in or replace the whole floor? Also, when you added material for the trunk lid edge, what process did you use? I have a lot of rust repair on my '37 to tackle. I am trying to build up my skills on items that will not be visible before I attempt the more obvious areas.
Thanks for the great photos.
Thanks for the great photos.
Kube
Super Moderator
Hey Zeke,
I do cut out as much of the floor as necessary. The front section (floor) of this car was pretty decent so I left it in and repaired as necessary. A lot of bumping and filing but little rust to deal with.
This car had a decent tail pan - decent. However, as I had to do a LOT of work on the trunk floor as well as the auxiliary seat area floor, it (tail pan with trunk pan) was replaced.
The pan beneath the auxiliary seat area is not reproduced and as such, that took a lot of effort to make it as new once again. A number of new pieces were fabricated.
I MIG all of the sheet metal. Slowly of course, an inch or so here and then and inch or so "over there". I allow plenty of time for each are to cool back to room temperature prior to going any further with the welding.
I butt weld where the pan requires (as authentic) a one piece appearance. There are a couple of lap joint welds on some of these cars. When one is encountered, I mimic that.
Welding the edge of a trunk lid is easy but very time consuming. Here too, I MIG. Once I believe I am done, I'll grind the newly placed welds down and occasionally need to add more in a spot or three.
Hope this helps...
Zeke3
Well-known member
Kube, that is a big help. I have been trying to butt weld my patches in with a 110v MIG machine. I usually go one spot at a time and jump around to allow the welds to cool. Lately I have been having more problems with blowing a hole in the base metal, even with the welder set as low as it will go. Then I end up with a mess trying to fill the hole.
Every little bit of information helps, thanks.
Every little bit of information helps, thanks.