Insulation material

I'm in the process of insulating now, I used a productt from Speedway Motors
You have a choice of single or double sided

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminized-Heat-and-Noise-Insulation-Shield-Double-Sided,32193.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alum...Insulation-Shield-4-x-6-Foot-Sheets,2604.html

The tape helped with sealing the seams

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Sealing-Tape-2-Inch-x-150-Ft-,94554.html

I undercoated the inside of the body before installing the insulation.
Last year the front of the car was completed, firewall, cowl sides, floor, doors and under the seat. I noticed a huge difference in sound and heat in the car, and the undercoating has rid the "tinny" sound when you close the doors. So seeing I have some extra time on my hands..... thought I would do the rear and complete the job.

I got the cans of undercoat at my local farm store.
 

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I used X-mat sourced from Eastwood for sound deadening. Very easty to work with. Then sprayed 3-M High Strength contact adhesive on it and adhered bubble wrap double faced aluminum insulation that was about 1/4" thick. I even put it in the roof assembly between the wood ribs. The double faced bubble insulation was sourced from a local Menards. (Like Home Depot or Lowes) Both help greatly.
Good Day!
 

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And don't forget that adding Dynamat will add at least 80-100lbs. to the car.

I don't think so. A bulk pack of Dynamat Xtreme weights ~15-20 lbs. I used a little less than two boxes for the interior of my Town Sedan, excluding the firewall and roof.
 
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I had thought about that also. The Dynamat REALLY sticks and if you pay attention to sealing it, especially around the edges, I don't see how moisture could get behind it (but I suppose anything is posible). They sell a little wooden roller to seal it flat.

Also in the pictire below, you can see the top of the Dynamat is above the bottom of the window so any water getting past the window seal will flow on the outside of the Dynamat.

And lastly, it doesn't rain much in SoCAl. And when it does I don't drive the Ol' Girl. :p:p

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That Sir is one well sorted out car. Congrats.
 
I installed the firewall insulator last year when I insulated the front "cab" section of the car. FW insulator was the first part of the job, needed a little trimming and different bolts for the junction box, removel of choke rod and gas line and any other "things" you may have tucked out of site. BIG difference in sound and heat, made my wife very happy. Even better results with the cowl and floors undercoated and insulated. I would go for it. See post #21 for what I used, I'm doing the back half of the car now.
 
Any concerns on what this does to the body panels when the next owner wants/needs to do a full restore? is this adhesive easy to remove?
 
Tom,
When doing the restoration on early Victoria I installed a Dyna-mat kit from L.B.& B. Boy was I pleasantly surprised @ how well it quieted the interior & keeping it more temperature tolerant in the cab. Adding to lowering the heat & sound from the engine,I also installed a insulating panel on the inside of the firewall.
Worked for me,
Bob
 

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I use Fatmat in my roadster, Motorhome, and my wife's 51 F1.
I believe it is similar to Dynamat. It quiets a lot and does keep it cooler. I am restoring a 30 pickup and it will get Fatmat everywhere I can get it.
 
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