I replaced my ivr now three years in a row. I have a f1 converted to 12v,so my fuel gauge,temp gauge and oil gauge are using the same ivr ,is this wrong?? Where should I be getting my 12volt power for the regulator,maybe it's getting a spike??? Maybe it's the China junk ivr..?? Any suggestions???
Instrument voltage regulator,ivr
- Thread starter Gick70
- Start date
I noticed Third Generation Auto has them on their website:
https://thirdgenauto.com/product/12-to-6-volt-reducer-for-gauges-one-does-all-gauges/
https://thirdgenauto.com/product/12-to-6-volt-reducer-for-gauges-one-does-all-gauges/
GB SISSON
Well-known member
I had a post up about 10 days ago called 'running ford king-seeley gauges on 12 v., or close to that . There is quite a bit of useful info on that thread. I received my reducer on Friday, but haven't tried it yet. Am tempted to make a gauge test panel with senders such as a pan of known hot water for heat, known air pressure (a tire?) for the op gauge , gas tank float that is known good. I have quite a few gauges , old and new. It seems that many of us have less than reliable gauges when going to 12 v. It would be nice to find what works and what doesn't before heading back under the dash and pulling out the panel.
JMFL36
Senior Member
I've got 3 Runtz 12-Volt to 6-Volt Voltage Reducers I'll sell you for half the price of Speedway 12V to 6V Reducer.
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
The old original instrument voltage regulators that started to show up around 1956/57 were bi-metalic current pulse type regulators adjusted to reduce the current and voltage for the instruments. The modern ones have been changing over from the old mechanical pulse regulation to the solid state systems. There is also the manufacturing quality control to deal with on most all reproduction stuff. Randy Rundle ran into this problem so he started using the single IC chip set ups for each instrument of the three that are generally needed. They were more reliable this way. There have also been quality control problems with the single unit IVRs or Runtz devices. Here is a link about that.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263733
Finding a good mechanical pulse regulator or chopper type unit may not be as easy as it once was. The points can stick on them so reliability and gauge function are affected by the pulse action from both their own function and from the regulator's function.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263733
Finding a good mechanical pulse regulator or chopper type unit may not be as easy as it once was. The points can stick on them so reliability and gauge function are affected by the pulse action from both their own function and from the regulator's function.
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Mart
Well-known member
Some gauges are very lively and undamped. Some are very slow to move and are heavily damped.
If you have the slow heavily damped type of gauge, the chopper type bimetallic strip type will work ok.
If you have fast reacting gauges an electronic type or resistor type will work better.
I used a 12V to 5V USB adaptor to power the fuel gauges in my 32 sedan and 33 coupe. They both use Ford Pop fuel gauges which are very fast acting and undamped.
Mart.
If you have the slow heavily damped type of gauge, the chopper type bimetallic strip type will work ok.
If you have fast reacting gauges an electronic type or resistor type will work better.
I used a 12V to 5V USB adaptor to power the fuel gauges in my 32 sedan and 33 coupe. They both use Ford Pop fuel gauges which are very fast acting and undamped.
Mart.