Instrument Panel

AL in NY

Well-known member
I have an original 30-31 instrument panel that I don't think is complete. There is nothing on the back of the panel for securing the pop-out switch. Could someone post a close up photo of the back of the instrument panel showing the pop-out switch area? Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!
 
The metal "shroud" where the pop-out switch head mounts apparently has been removed. Who knows why, but it sticks out like a muddy elephant in a snow storm. Its absence should be quite noticeable. I don't recall seeing just that metal surround area being reproduced and sold separately. You may need to replace the panel with a complete one and hang yours on the garage wall as a decoration.
Marshall
 
Do these help?
 

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Mine is the same. I thought that I had done something wrong and did not want to say anything. But seeing your situation, we are in the same boat.

Let me know if you figure anything out.

Thanks,
John
 
Marshall, do you think that a shroud from a re-pop instrument panel could be fitted to an original steel IP?

Art: thanks for the pictures, that's just what I was looking for. Can I ask you to post a photo of the front side near the pop-out switch so I can see how the after market shroud is mounted?
 
Marshall, do you think that a shroud from a re-pop instrument panel could be fitted to an original steel IP?

Art: thanks for the pictures, that's just what I was looking for. Can I ask you to post a photo of the front side near the pop-out switch so I can see how the after market shroud is mounted?
This is an original I had nickle plated.
 

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AL in NY -
If you plan on having the panel re-plated anyway, you could solder or braze the new piece in place, assuming you can take one off a cheap repop or a damaged original. Be sure to note its orientation before removing it, though! The placement of the notches and screw holes is critical. I wouldn't try using an epoxy to hold the shroud (or whatever the heck it's called!) against the panel's backside because the pop-out cable is under quite a bit of bending pressure as it comes out of the head. It could easily become dislodged from the head and kill the engine or even create a short behind the panel.
I have several original oval speedo instrument panels in the basement somewhere. I'll see if there is one beyond repair or is not a candidate for re-plating, yet still has the shroud. Should there be such a poor soul in my dungeon, you may have it. If that doesn't pan out, there surely must be a reader here who has a damaged panel with the shroud still in place that he'd be willing to give up.
Marshall
 
Art Ebeling -
That is one BEAUTIFUL plating job and instrument panel restoration! The finish looks so much better this way than in a blindingly shiny Chinese chrome plating.
Marshall
 
AL in NY -
If you plan on having the panel re-plated anyway, you could solder or braze the new piece in place, assuming you can take one off a cheap repop or a damaged original. Be sure to note its orientation before removing it, though! The placement of the notches and screw holes is critical. I wouldn't try using an epoxy to hold the shroud (or whatever the heck it's called!) against the panel's backside because the pop-out cable is under quite a bit of bending pressure as it comes out of the head. It could easily become dislodged from the head and kill the engine or even create a short behind the panel.
I have several original oval speedo instrument panels in the basement somewhere. I'll see if there is one beyond repair or is not a candidate for re-plating, yet still has the shroud. Should there be such a poor soul in my dungeon, you may have it. If that doesn't pan out, there surely must be a reader here who has a damaged panel with the shroud still in place that he'd be willing to give up.
Marshall

I may have one, will look tomorrow. If so would be glad to donate it.
 
Art Ebeling -
That is one BEAUTIFUL plating job and instrument panel restoration! The finish looks so much better this way than in a blindingly shiny Chinese chrome plating.
Marshall
Thanks, The plating was done by Craig Riker. He also plated all my interior pieces and chrome plated the bumpers leaving the backsides unpolished. The black painted areas on the instrument panel were done by Jim Brand using a stencil so there are soft edges. He also did my bumper clamps the same way. I plan on having Mr Brand do the pinstriping also. Now if I could just get the body painting finished.
 

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I looked through the instrument panels in my basement this morning, but couldn't find a suitable sacrificial candidate. All are good examples for restoration and it'd be a shame to destroy one just to take the ignition cable head shroud off. 'Sorry.
But it looks like others have chimed in with offers and suggestions, unless you insist on keeping your car's parts intact. That will be almost impossible to do, however.
Marshall
 
Marshall: thanks for the offer of an original shroud. No epoxy, I was thinking of possibly attaching the shroud using small screws. They would be hidden by the on-off plate.

Ed H: Thanks for the offer, if you have one send me a note and I'll pay for the shipping.

Art: thanks again for the photos. They are really helpful.
 
Al in NY; I may have a donor you can have. I will look today and repost. I don't know where you are in NY but I am near the Mass border in NY. I might be close enough to hand carry to you. Jack
 
Al Im in northern New Jersey I have an original that needs to be replatted or you could take parts off it $20 973 835 1472
 
jhowes: Sent you a private email.

cjkohnast: where in northern NJ are you? Would you be willing to ship if I paid the shipping?
 
I've got a nasty one you could have... speedo seems to work when spun with a drill.
 

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