Instructions for KRW timing fixture
- Thread starter Ed Pitts
- Start date
Hoop
Well-known member
To understand the dwell scale, you must understand what you are trying to "set"/"adjust" in your distributor.
Without a huge amount of theory, you are looking for each set of points to be open for 22 1/2 degrees ... then closed for 22 1/2 degrees. The degree scale indicates when they are open/closed. It does not matter where the scale is positioned as long as you can read the degrees of open/close.
In other words, if the points open at 10 and close at 32 1/2 ... that's 22 1/2. The scale does not have to move ... I have an older model that did not originally have a degree scale; I added one that does not move, and it works great.
By the way, the original instructions are confusing and spend more time talking about slot A, bolt b and index c .... and never telling you what you need to understand.
So, the steps are, in this order:
1. Slip a bit of paper/card stock between the right-hand points to prevent them from closing ... work on the left-hand points first and set them to be open for 22 1/2 degrees (and closed for the same). Put the degree scale in any position that is easy to read.
Note: There will be some slop in moving the fixture wheel back and forth. Move it far enough each way to eliminate this. Also, I prefer to use a ohm meter with a beeper rather than the fixture light.
2. Set the advance using the adjustment index on the side of the distributor so that the points open when a "firing line" (F) on the fixture wheel aligns with the "index" on the fixture.
3. Move the paper/card stock block from the right-hand points over to the left-hand points and use the same procedure to set the right-hand points to 22 1/2. You do not have to reset the advance.
Here's a visual:
Without a huge amount of theory, you are looking for each set of points to be open for 22 1/2 degrees ... then closed for 22 1/2 degrees. The degree scale indicates when they are open/closed. It does not matter where the scale is positioned as long as you can read the degrees of open/close.
In other words, if the points open at 10 and close at 32 1/2 ... that's 22 1/2. The scale does not have to move ... I have an older model that did not originally have a degree scale; I added one that does not move, and it works great.
By the way, the original instructions are confusing and spend more time talking about slot A, bolt b and index c .... and never telling you what you need to understand.
So, the steps are, in this order:
1. Slip a bit of paper/card stock between the right-hand points to prevent them from closing ... work on the left-hand points first and set them to be open for 22 1/2 degrees (and closed for the same). Put the degree scale in any position that is easy to read.
Note: There will be some slop in moving the fixture wheel back and forth. Move it far enough each way to eliminate this. Also, I prefer to use a ohm meter with a beeper rather than the fixture light.
2. Set the advance using the adjustment index on the side of the distributor so that the points open when a "firing line" (F) on the fixture wheel aligns with the "index" on the fixture.
3. Move the paper/card stock block from the right-hand points over to the left-hand points and use the same procedure to set the right-hand points to 22 1/2. You do not have to reset the advance.
Here's a visual:
Last edited:
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
And...the two 22 1/2 degree dwells overlap tp produce total working dwell of 36.
The two points when set should put you right there, and setting the gap with a feeler gauge at the beginning should get all 3 figures of dwell to a starting point very close to right. If the two single point dwells do not add up properly or if getting proper dwell requires big change in gap from spec, either the point plate or something is damaged (unlikely) or you have badly made points with pivots located inaccurately.
The two points when set should put you right there, and setting the gap with a feeler gauge at the beginning should get all 3 figures of dwell to a starting point very close to right. If the two single point dwells do not add up properly or if getting proper dwell requires big change in gap from spec, either the point plate or something is damaged (unlikely) or you have badly made points with pivots located inaccurately.
Charlie ny
BANNED
Ed,
Send me a stamped self addressed envelope and I'll send you a
copy of the instructions.
Charlie ny
Charles Schwendler
5845 Cole Rd.
Orchard Park, N.Y.
14127
Send me a stamped self addressed envelope and I'll send you a
copy of the instructions.
Charlie ny
Charles Schwendler
5845 Cole Rd.
Orchard Park, N.Y.
14127
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
To understand the dwell scale, you must understand what you are trying to "set"/"adjust" in your distributor.
Without a huge amount of theory, you are looking for each set of points to be open for 22 1/2 degrees ... then closed for 22 1/2 degrees. The degree scale indicates when they are open/closed. It does not matter where the scale is positioned as long as you can read the degrees of open/close.
In other words, if the points open at 10 and close at 32 1/2 ... that's 22 1/2. The scale does not have to move ... I have an older model that did not originally have a degree scale; I added one that does not move, and it works great.
By the way, the original instructions are confusing and spend more time talking about slot A, bolt b and index c .... and never telling you what you need to understand.
So, the steps are, in this order:
1. Slip a bit of paper/card stock between the right-hand points to prevent them from closing ... work on the left-hand points first and set them to be open for 22 1/2 degrees (and closed for the same). Put the degree scale in any position that is easy to read.
Note: There will be some slop in moving the fixture wheel back and forth. Move it far enough each way to eliminate this. Also, I prefer to use a ohm meter with a beeper rather than the fixture light.
2. Set the advance using the adjustment index on the side of the distributor so that the points open when a "firing line" (F) on the fixture wheel aligns with the "index" on the fixture.
3. Move the paper/card stock block from the right-hand points over to the left-hand points and use the same procedure to set the right-hand points to 22 1/2. You do not have to reset the advance.
Here's a visual:
Hi Hoop;
Thanks for the info.
I also have a KRW Timing Fixture I bought a while back and do not have the instructions. I have yet to set up a stock Distributor on it but I did do a Harman Collins a few monthes ago. I was mostly interested in adjusting the points so they opened at 45 Deg. of each other and I found the Timing Fixture worked well for this. On that engine, I had determined TDC and made a pointer so actual timing was not important, just the relation ship of one point set to the other and the dwell of each point set. When I got the thing running and checked with my timing light, I found I was within 1 Deg. which is about as good as you could expect.
Thanks for the info and diagram. Now that I know the relationship of the points to each other and that the dwell of each point set is 22 1/2 deg, it will be easy to set up a stock distributor.
Chris
