Installing temp gauge.

This works for me.
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Another choice :-
Cut top radiator hose to accommodate a double nipple with adaptor into which temp sensor can be installed.(Tam's, Mac's, Bratton's) Run conductor along radiator stabilizer rod secured with wire ties and then through firewall.
 
Another choice :-
Cut top radiator hose to accommodate a double nipple with adaptor into which temp sensor can be installed.(Tam's, Mac's, Bratton's) Run conductor along radiator stabilizer rod secured with wire ties and then through firewall.




Downside of using an in coolant hose water temp probe adapter is if you run a thermostat. Can not place the thermostat properly as close to the block as possible.
 
Are a few inches really going to matter??
Paul in CT
The issue is when using a gauge and having a thermostat.


I found when my thermostat migrated from the block/pump neck to the radiator the motor ran 10 degrees hotter, and saw 5-10 degrees fluctuation in the gauge reading, readings were not stable. This is the probe in the neck.


The recommendation is to have the thermostat after the probe to reduce gauge fluctuations of the thermostat opening closing. And also best place to read the motor coolant temp is as close to the block as possible.



So in my case the thermostat would be away from the block and closer to the radiator, motor would most like run hotter, and see more fluctuations in the gauge reading.


At one point I took the thermostat out and used an IR Temp Gun. I was surprised there was a difference on the hose at 1/2 inch away from the radiator neck, to the hose 1/2 inch away from the block/pump neck. I do not remember now how much, but it was more than just a couple of degrees.


I guess it depends on how well your cooling system is, and if you can live with an extra 5- 10 running hotter, and if you can live with the gauge fluctuations.
 
My previous thermostat and temperature gauge were installed in the middle of the top hose, using a metal “T.” I had a lot of fluctuations in the gauge readings. It was a 180 degree thermostat with two small relief holes drilled into it, but the temperature gauge would swing back and forth, like a slow clock pendulum, between 170 and 190 degrees all the time while driving the car.

I have since replaced the upper water outlet with a product from Vintage Precision, which places the thermostat and temperature gauge hookup adjacent to the block. I’ve been working on other items while I had the car apart; so, I haven’t refilled the radiator yet to determine if the fluctuations are still there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The issue is when using a gauge and having a thermostat.

I found when my thermostat migrated from the block/pump neck to the radiator the motor ran 10 degrees hotter, and saw 5-10 degrees fluctuation in the gauge reading, readings were not stable. This is the probe in the neck.

So in my case the thermostat would be away from the block and closer to the radiator, motor would most like run hotter, and see more fluctuations in the gauge reading.


At one point I took the thermostat out and used an IR Temp Gun. I was surprised there was a difference on the hose at 1/2 inch away from the radiator neck, to the hose 1/2 inch away from the block/pump neck. I do not remember now how much, but it was more than just a couple of degrees.

My previous thermostat and temperature gauge were installed in the middle of the top hose, using a metal “T.” I had a lot of fluctuations in the gauge readings. It was a 180 degree thermostat with two small relief holes drilled into it, but the temperature gauge would swing back and forth, like a slow clock pendulum, between 170 and 190 degrees all the time while driving the car.

I guess that pretty much proves 30 Closed Cab PU's point...
 
Mine runs from the sensor straight up to the radiator support rod, over to the firewall then down to a wire harness and goes through the firewall at the steering column opening. It then runs up the steering column where a C clamp holds the gauge mount.
 
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