Installing Starter motor

AnthonyG

AnthonyG

Well-known member
Starter came out easy, reinstall fighting me. Getting gear past flywheel gear a struggle? Any tips or tricks? I’ve got 5/16-18 nuts holding starter case on. When if take them off to install the case keeps sliding almost releasing brushes & springs? Need three hands, lol.
 
New style or original style bendix? 8ba or earlier block? The reason I ask is that I know from experience the new style bendix can be a difficult install on an 8ba. Not sure about earlier blocks. I was able to wiggle it in after a fight on the 8ba in a '40 truck I had but I've read that some have had to resort to some custom grinding to make the new style bendix fit. On the other hand the new 12 volt starter with an original style bendix went in with no issues in the 8ba in my '39 p/u.
 
Its an 8BA, don’t know diff between old & new style? Included pic, not sure u can tell? Starter was on engine originally. I did engine work that required removal. So it’s been installed & this is reinstall. Does the newer style u speak of keep the case bolted together while installing?
 

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Look at post #4 in thread below. It shows an OEM style BENDIX 8BA starter fitting behind the fly wheel of an 8BA engine with an 8BA flywheel. You have to tilt starter at a little angle to slide it in so that the Bendix gear will mesh with the flywheel gear. Then it will bolt right up. If you're laying on your back under the car, the starter get's a lot heavier!
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211141&highlight=converting+starter+12v

The original style Bendix starter is shown in photo 11 in
the first post on the link mentioned above.
 
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I use a soft copper wire wrapped around the starter bolt to hold together and then after bolts are started just pull wire out
 
Having seen the diff between the new & old style now I see the start gear is an easier install. But would I be assuming correctly the new is an easier install via ‘case remains fastened together’ during install or is the same loose case condition involved?
 
flathead 4rd is correct. No matter what the "case is", use the starter with the Henry Ford style original Bendix drive. They have been working good since 1932.
 
AnthonyG said:
Having seen the diff between the new & old style now I see the start gear is an easier install. But would I be assuming correctly the new is an easier install via ‘case remains fastened together’ during install or is the same loose case condition involved?
Click to expand...
Doesn't make any difference which Bendix you use the case remains the same. The new style Bendix is often more difficult to install, clearance issues that may require grinding to clear.
 
QUOTE=alanwoodieman;1894007]I use a soft copper wire wrapped around the starter bolt to hold together and then after bolts are started just pull wire out[/QUOTE]

I’ll b installing original old style I removed. I do like alanwoodieman‘s idea w the copper wire holding together till bolts r started.
 
I use a square piece of plastic (like cut from a 1/2 gallon ice cream container) with a hole in it like a nut. It doesn't take much to hold it together.
 
I put masking tape on the starter case and the bell housing. I put alignment marks on them so I could line the case up so the bolts could be started. It sure made it easier for me to install the starter
 
Just put gaffa tape around the outside of the assembly so it doesn't come apart, bolt it all up and then peel tape off. Usually I have no problems, I remember putting on a standard pan on the pilot engine so I could use a standard stater, it was a little difficult to get the stater on and I did grind a little bit to make it easier to get on. I dont think there's much of a difference between 21's and 24's..?
 
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I use a little duct tape to hold the starter together....and then leave it on to remind me that the next time I take it off, be careful to not let it come apart. Sometimes it's a ***** to put back together and a job I probably don't need!! JMO!!:cool:
 
On removing & now trying to reinstall the case did slide about 1/8”-1/4” before I slid back to correct position. I didn’t feel or hear anything dislodge. Any chance anything came apart? Thinking I’ll do a Clamp on bench & check applying voltage to make sure?
 
Anthony,
If it didn't pull apart far enough on removal for the brushes to slide off the shaft, your good. Test: if the pieces slide back together without a gap the brushes are still correctly seated.
No big deal if the come off and actually while you have it off I would check the brushes for wear. With a little wiggling and a long pick you can get them back in place. As I remember you can set the brushes behind the brush holders, slip the case together and move the brushes into their holders with a small screwdriver through the inspection hole.
Don't forget that little bracket piece between the starter and a pan bolt. Don't ask! Chap
 
I installed a "stump puller" starter that I bought from Speedway on my '34 roadster some years ago. My reason for this was that with 12 volts, I had broken the Bendix twice and I needed to remove the right header (welded up tubing) each time. The advantages of this are that this starter is extremely light weight, there is no Bendix to deal with and it hits on the front of the flywheel which I assume has little wear compared to the rear. The disadvantages are the price and that it is ugly.
 
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