Installing shock links

this is a composite of advice from several other restorer's and several sources. worked nicely for me!


* install 1st brass/Teflon seat into closed end of link
* install perch ball through grease seal cap/seal and then into the side hole near the closed end of the link
* install 2nd seat, spacer, spring and 3rd seat
* install shock arm ball through grease seal cap/seal and then into side hole near open end of link
* install 4th seat and plug … tighten plug down enough to ensure perch/arm balls stay installed in link
* use a 3/4" open end wrench to turn the shaft of the shock to align with the square hole in the shock arm … slip the arm onto the shaft … tighten the arm bolt.
* tighten the link plug and secure with cotter pin
 
I found that I needed to grease each part as I did the assembly. I couldn't be sure the grease would move thru the grease fitting to both ends. Messy job and not to be done with out some liquid courage. Clem
 
Charles covered it well. I posted on this topic probably ten years ago. The primary thing is that due to the installed position of the link it must be cocked at quite an angle during installation if the the arm is mounted on the shock. Having the arm off the shock as Charles said is much easier. Additionally, in many (or all?) cases it's actually easier to slip the perch ball in after the internal parts and arm ball. If I recall correctly you won't have to fight the spring at all this way as the upper or arm ball can move farther from the center once through the hole than the lower ball which is constrained by the fixed end of the link. I'm thinking but not certain that there is also room to do all this with the link horizontally and then rotated upward when time to mount the arm on the shock.

Whatever you try please report back on your results.
 
I have found on a couple of repo link sets, the inside end of the link tube has been mis-machined and the seat will not sit down correctly in the tube. It is a fairly complicated to chuck the tube into a lathe and using a boring bar to re-machine the seating face to accept the brass seat. A vertical boring mill works the best, if you have enough gap.
 
my problem was the grease retainer 'cover' (metal) moving and scratching the paint on the link tube ... touched up, but frustrating for us OCD types!:eek: In retrospect, i might try taping them to the link with green painters tape while manipulating ...
 
I machined a very simple little tool to help install them. if anyone is interested I will try and find it and take a picture.
Bill
 
Charles Reese steps are mostly correct. Marco's suggestion of installing the lower end onto the spring perch is correct. Use the stickiest grease you have for internals and parts will stay in place better.

Here is where I diverge from above comments. Best to install the shock arm correctly onto the shock first, then attach this unit into the link, and tighten down the link plug so the arm stays put. Then it is easy to manipulate the shock-and-arm assembly upward with little effort and bolt the shock to the frame.
 
Vern, check your other posting, I use a 1/4 inch punch with a flat face to smash the lead ball in each corner. Needs to be a clean surface.
 
Thank God for the later style “dog bone” style links. I just cleaned up and remounted all four on my coupe. Now I have all the original shocks off the car and the links that go with them as it’s a driver and not going for show etc. I appreciate the patience many have shown in reworking the original style links. It truly is a talent and I applaud the efforts.
 
The bad news is, yeah, it’s a bit of a PITA to install the tubular links. The good news is that you only need to do it once. If for some reason you need to remove either the shock or the suspension you can fairly easily remove the shock arm from the shock rather than disassembling the link. Having said that, I agree that the dog bones are so much easier, but… I got a new dog bone link from one of the vendors and it was an imported POS that didn’t even use SAE fittings - they were freakin’ M6 cap screws with a 10mm head!
 
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I have to disagree that it is hard to install the shock links. I did a presentation to our club (TCMAFC) by making a small tool with simple equipment- You can easily with out pain and with out resorting to improper english get the job done. I have a power point if you PM me that basically shows the process. Be aware I spoke while doing the presentation and filled in some of the tricks. You can do the fronts with the wheels on but removing wheels is easier and I would say have to for the rears.
 
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