Johnnydidd
Well-known member
Would someone show me how to install a PCV valve on my 312 Merc. thanks john
Installing PCV on 312
- Thread starter Johnnydidd
- Start date
miker98038
Well-known member
Last post on this link is a list of articles. Thanks to Ted Eaton
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic69384.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic69384.aspx
Hot Rod Reverend
Well-known member
send me your email address and i will send you a word file and photos of the install that I did for the Y block magazine.
Johnnydidd
Well-known member
my email is johndidde@aol.com THANKS I will be looking for it
I'm sure the information that you receive by email will cover all of this as well, but I thought I would post the procedure I used to install the PCV valve on my 57 Ford 292:
1) Remove intake manifold and existing valley pan and replace the valley pan with one that has provision for the PCV valve (installed in the original rear road draft tube port in the valley pan) There is a valley pan on Ebay that would work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-1...9037dbd&pid=100033&rk=2&rkt=4&sd=310872866460
I couldn't use this spacer plate with my installation due to having a 2-barrel carb and I could not find a spacer plate with the vacuum port, so I just drilled and tapped the intake manifold right behind the carb and installed a fitting. Either way would work, but for you the spacer plate would probably be easier.
The other thing I did with the T-Bird valley pan was to braze a plug over the hole in the port (in the baffle box) directly below where the PCV valve and grommet are inserted to prevent oil splash from reaching the PCV valve.
2: Install spacer plate under your carb (if it is a 4-barrel which I assume it is with your 312 engine). There is a spacer plate with PCV valve & hose on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-57-FOR...ash=item4861777e9c:g:I~cAAMXQiNdRcTXv&vxp=mtr
The PCV valve with this kit is probably a good fit for the 312, but if you purchase a PCV separately, you need to match the PCV (cubic inch displacement rating) as close as you can. I bought a PCV for a 1966 Fairlane w/289 engine that I bought from Rock Auto and it worked just fine.
3: Block off the original road draft tube on the lower front portion of the block on the driver's side. I just fashioned a plate from 1/8" steel and made a gasket to fit the opening. Some others have re-installed the original draft tube with the opening blocked off to keep original look. Either way would work, but I felt the plate was simpler.
That's about it. Good luck with your installation. I'm sure you will be happy with the end result (less oil dripping, less engine fumes in garage, even some improved crankshaft sealing due to partial vacuum in crankcase)
Dave
1) Remove intake manifold and existing valley pan and replace the valley pan with one that has provision for the PCV valve (installed in the original rear road draft tube port in the valley pan) There is a valley pan on Ebay that would work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-1...9037dbd&pid=100033&rk=2&rkt=4&sd=310872866460
I couldn't use this spacer plate with my installation due to having a 2-barrel carb and I could not find a spacer plate with the vacuum port, so I just drilled and tapped the intake manifold right behind the carb and installed a fitting. Either way would work, but for you the spacer plate would probably be easier.
The other thing I did with the T-Bird valley pan was to braze a plug over the hole in the port (in the baffle box) directly below where the PCV valve and grommet are inserted to prevent oil splash from reaching the PCV valve.
2: Install spacer plate under your carb (if it is a 4-barrel which I assume it is with your 312 engine). There is a spacer plate with PCV valve & hose on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-57-FOR...ash=item4861777e9c:g:I~cAAMXQiNdRcTXv&vxp=mtr
The PCV valve with this kit is probably a good fit for the 312, but if you purchase a PCV separately, you need to match the PCV (cubic inch displacement rating) as close as you can. I bought a PCV for a 1966 Fairlane w/289 engine that I bought from Rock Auto and it worked just fine.
3: Block off the original road draft tube on the lower front portion of the block on the driver's side. I just fashioned a plate from 1/8" steel and made a gasket to fit the opening. Some others have re-installed the original draft tube with the opening blocked off to keep original look. Either way would work, but I felt the plate was simpler.
That's about it. Good luck with your installation. I'm sure you will be happy with the end result (less oil dripping, less engine fumes in garage, even some improved crankshaft sealing due to partial vacuum in crankcase)
Dave
Attachments
Ole Don
Well-known member
I did mine like oldave 57 above, but I made a baffle inside the valley pan. When the valley pan is off, be sure to get all the crud out of the covered area, then cut and insert two levels of 3M green pad as a baffle. Without the baffle, the engine would suck oil. If you have done the conversion and notice at highway speed the car makes oil disappear, this is the problem. To cover the hole on the side of the block, a fuel pump gasket seemed like a good fit, so I found a fuel pump block off plate. I also used sealer on those two bolts.
Johnnydidd
Well-known member
Question, instead of removing valley pan and intake could I just go into one of the rocker covers?
The air flow through the engine is somewhat "centered" with the outlet in the rear of the valley pan cover, and if the outlet was in just one of the valve covers it wouldn't be quite as effective.
According to the Ford shop manual, air enters at the oil fill cap (which is filtered with a mesh filter) and into the front of the valley pan cavity. It is then diverted by a baffle in the valley pan to go through both rocker arm chambers and flows from front to rear in those chambers and back to the rear area of the engine and crankcase and finally, drawn out at the rear of the valley pan (with the T-bird valley pan where the road draft tube was originally installed for T-bird applications). By installing the PCV in this location, you are keeping the air flow pretty much the same as originally intended.
I have seen some installations where air is drawn out of the valve covers and into the air cleaner to attempt to provide crankcase ventilation, but the installation isn't nearly as clean as the rear of the valley pan and probably not as effective for crankcase ventilation.
Removal of the intake manifold and valley pan is quite a bit of work, but it was worth the effort (in my opinion) for an effective PCV installation.
Dave
According to the Ford shop manual, air enters at the oil fill cap (which is filtered with a mesh filter) and into the front of the valley pan cavity. It is then diverted by a baffle in the valley pan to go through both rocker arm chambers and flows from front to rear in those chambers and back to the rear area of the engine and crankcase and finally, drawn out at the rear of the valley pan (with the T-bird valley pan where the road draft tube was originally installed for T-bird applications). By installing the PCV in this location, you are keeping the air flow pretty much the same as originally intended.
I have seen some installations where air is drawn out of the valve covers and into the air cleaner to attempt to provide crankcase ventilation, but the installation isn't nearly as clean as the rear of the valley pan and probably not as effective for crankcase ventilation.
Removal of the intake manifold and valley pan is quite a bit of work, but it was worth the effort (in my opinion) for an effective PCV installation.
Dave
Johnnydidd
Well-known member
Dave, makes sense, thanks
bjmayberry2
Junior Member
What grommet and PCV valve are you guys using?
bjmayberry2
Junior Member
TedEaton
Senior Member
Retry those links again. I found that they were going to one of the older YBF sites and have edited the hyperlinks which should take them to the current forum. Ted Eaton.
edit: I just tried the links from the FordBarn and they are not current to here yet. They are current if accessing directly from the YBF site but not here. That's a four year old post and it may take a few hours for the changes to come to the forefront across the internet. Ted.
edit: I just tried the links from the FordBarn and they are not current to here yet. They are current if accessing directly from the YBF site but not here. That's a four year old post and it may take a few hours for the changes to come to the forefront across the internet. Ted.
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big job
Well-known member
Do a search on lets say a 1964 Ford truck (YBlock) I had a F350 it was the screw
type pvc near the distributor and went into the base of the carb. the draft/filter was
blanked off. If I remember correcly late Y bocks didn't have a 'hole' for the draft
filter and tube. easiest is a carb spacer with a vacuum port if not drill and tap the
intake... sam
drill and tap make sure you use a shop vac
type pvc near the distributor and went into the base of the carb. the draft/filter was
blanked off. If I remember correcly late Y bocks didn't have a 'hole' for the draft
filter and tube. easiest is a carb spacer with a vacuum port if not drill and tap the
intake... sam
drill and tap make sure you use a shop vac
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blucar
Well-known member
The PCV system off of a '64 Ford 292 truck is a bolt-in application for any Y-block, 292-312.. I have done several of them during the past twenty years. The fitting to replace the road draft tube bolts right in place of same.
The engine will run a little richer with the PCV so the carb will have to be leaned out a bit.
Some of the earlier Y-Block have a block breather on the lower left side of the block. This will have to be blocked off. To keep the engine stock looking I put a flat plate between the breather can and the block..
The engine will run a little richer with the PCV so the carb will have to be leaned out a bit.
Some of the earlier Y-Block have a block breather on the lower left side of the block. This will have to be blocked off. To keep the engine stock looking I put a flat plate between the breather can and the block..
Attachments
blucar
Well-known member
I have converted several Ford Y-Blocks to PCV systems using a Chevy type of PCV installed into a valve cover. I prefer the right side valve cover.
The only trick to this application is that a baffle has to be fabricated and installed on the bottom of the valve cover between two valves, allowing clearance for same. The baffle "box" has to be deep enough for the PCV to seat into the grommet in the cover with about 1/4" clearance for air flow. I install the baffle box with four pop rivets. The radius of the valve cover, can/will require good fitment of the box to the valve cover.
All of the parts required for the Chevy system are available at any good parts store. Most intakes have vacuum ports, if yours does not use a spacer under the carb that had a 3/8" port in it.
Block off the road draft tube and make sure the crankcase fill pipe has a breathable, mess filled cap on it.