Installing oil Pan gaskets?

The Eclector

The Eclector

Junior Member
I have a 1930 Model A. I've dropped the oil pan to clean it out after blowing a head gasket. Now I want to put it back together but not having done this before, I have run up against a problem.

I have a new cork gasket set. I've removed the old rear seal and noticed that the new cork seal is about a half inch longer. It won't fit the channel without buckling. I have not soaked it in oil yet. Do I need to trim the new cork gasket or does the excess material help facilitate the seal?

Also, any sage advice for keeping the main pan seal cork in place while I'm installing it?
 
Not sure on the crank seal I THINK you need to trim it to a tad longer and tuck the ends in, some one will chime in on that.

The cork gasket all I do is put some wheel brg grease on the block to hold the gasket up until I get the pan in place. I may be handy to cut the heads of a couple of 1/4 bolts, screw them in with fingers to use a alignment dowels.
 
Years ago my uncle used to tie the gaskets with cotton sewing thread. It was thin enough to get the bolts through then cut the thread and pull it out before you bring the bolts home. The thread removed with no problem.
 

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Wow, that's some great advice! Thanks for the article, it seems to be just what I was looking for. It would all be a lot easier if the engine were out of the car but I'm not that lucky. Looks like I'll be fabricating some alignment studs.
 
in the car installation . tack pan rails to block , fit rear cork , tack it in , if the front seal is the white one , soak or coat will oil or grease , put pan up . don't forget to hold the oil pump up also . then drive it like you stole it !
 
I use ONLY paper gaskets. (CORK gaskets are a PAIN in the ***!) Glue them to the block with spray trim cement, install the rear cork at each end & in the middle, then work them in carefully. A dab of sealer, where the cork & the gasket intersect. It's EASY! Yes, the front pan bolts are testy, turning the steering helps SOME. That's what Universal Joint Sockets are made for! Just snug the bolts & you're DONE!
OH, to hold up the oil pump, just run a 1/8 pipe die down on a 3/8" SAE bolt & it'll screw in with your fingers, & just snug it up. (TIP# 19) NO, I don't have a LIST of tips, I just "make up" numbers---LOL--The Dog helps me--LOL
OH, when I pulled Vermins' pan, the pump DIDN'T fall out, "someone" had peened over the locating dowel. The oil pump drive gear had NO spring & wouldn't pull out. I don't know how "someone" secured it, so just added a spring & lett'r GO! FUN things you find inside an engine--LOL
Bill Simple
 
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BILL WILLIAMSON said:
I use ONLY paper gaskets. (CORK gaskets are a PAIN in the ***!) Glue them to the block with spray trim cement, install the rear cork at each end & in the middle, then work them in carefully. A dab of sealer, where the cork & the gasket intersect. It's EASY! Yes, the front pan bolts are testy, turning the steering helps SOME. That's what Universal Joint Sockets are made for! Just snug the bolts & you're DONE!
OH, to hold up the oil pump, just run a 1/8 pipe die down on a 3/8" SAE bolt & it'll screw in with your fingers, & just snug it up. (TIP# 19) NO, I don't have a LIST of tips, I just "make up" numbers---LOL--The Dog helps me--LOL
OH, when I pulled Vermins' pan, the pump DIDN'T fall out, "someone" had peened over the locating dowel. The oil pump drive gear had NO spring & wouldn't pull out. I don't know how "someone" secured it, so just added a spring & lett'r GO! FUN things you find inside an engine--LOL
Bill Simple
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Mine are not show cars so this won't make any difference but I cut a slot in the head of the front bolts and use a screw driver. Much easier!
 
I was always told your not supposed to trim any of the seals.
And make sure you remove the dipstick before reinstalling the oil pan! Mine got jammed between the pan and windage tray and I didn't know it and i almost broke the stick off.
 
Similar to post 12 , for the engine pans at frame , we cut a slot in the bolt ends to help install/ remove nuts. The article in post 3 is a good method. Using minimal contact cement dabs to hold the gasket in place at a few places insures no gasket shift and allows gasket removal without a lot of residue. The gasket fronts should touch the pulley.
The plastic step ups sold by the vendors we use in our shop regularly when engine in car.
 
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