installing new timing gear

FrankWest

FrankWest

Well-known member
I am installing my new timing gear tomorrow. Are there torque requirements for the cam Timing gear nut? I will put the car in 3rd gear, put the parking brake on, block the wheels...What else? Did someone say jam a rag between the gears? If I do that how will I remove the rag?
 
FrankWest said:
I am installing my new timing gear tomorrow. Are there torque requirements for the cam Timing gear nut? I will put the car in 3rd gear, put the parking brake on, block the wheels...What else? Did someone say jam a rag between the gears? If I do that how will I remove the rag?
Click to expand...

Turn the engine in the opposite direction.

Bob
 
The torque on the gear retainer nut is *** tight. 100+ #.
I've been putting a rag between the gears for 50+ years, on all, not just As. Apparently thats now not the thing to do, at least with fiber gears. There are some that want the cam gear clamped rigidly so there is no tension on the teeth.
 
Mitch//pa said:
Frank what cam gear did you decide to go with?
Click to expand...

I chickened out and ordered aluminum.

figured fiber is soft against steel crank gear
Aluminum is soft against steel crank gear but won't crumble like fiber.
I did not want to replace the crank gear..Don't have 20 ton press and don't want to take the entirte front of my car apart.
If aluminum teeth are not its soft properties will eventually wear down by the steel crank gear for smooth running "self correcting?"
 
FrankWest said:
I chickened out and ordered aluminum.

figured fiber is soft against steel crank gear
Aluminum is soft against steel crank gear but won't crumble like fiber.
I did not want to replace the crank gear..Don't have 20 ton press and don't want to take the entirte front of my car apart.
If aluminum teeth are not its soft properties will eventually wear down by the steel crank gear for smooth running "self correcting?"
Click to expand...

you didn't chicken out if you did you would have put a fiber in. let us know how it sounds when you getter running
 
Do NOT jam a rag between the cam and crank gears, you will be putting undue pressure on the new cam gear teeth, enough to damage them.

Here is a reply from the manufacturer (DMC Gears) of the aluminum and bronze cam gears when I asked him what the correct method of instaling the gear with the cam in the engine.

"On the cam gear nut- you don't want to use the teeth to stop the rotation of the cam. Best way is to remove the cam gear side cover, and clamp a bar of metal to the rim of the cam gear with a few c clamps and let the bar stop the cam rotation- you can put some sheetmetal between the c clamp and the gear face to keep from damaging the gear. Make sure the face of the cam is clean and burr free before putting the new gear on the cam. To put the crank gear on, heat it up to about 325/375 degrees and it will almost slide on- work fast and have a piece of pipe or tubing handy to seat the gear on the crankshaft with some hammer blows. Tighten the nut to at least 50 ft-lbs. Regards, Dan "
 
Last edited:
The clamping of the timing gear sounds like a wonderful idea. Except that I have never gotten it to work. You cannot achieve sufficient clamping force to stop the gear from turning.

Mike, have you actually gotten this to work?

Has anyone?

I doubt there will be an issue using a rag with an aluminum gear. I have had no trouble. I have also never seen an aluminum gear with damaged teeth.

Now, while some say to use an impact gun, I would suggest that the jarring action and recoil/rapid takeup of these guns would put quite a strain on the gear teeth...way more than a rag. After all, an impact gun is just a rotary jackhammer. If the cam were out of the car this method would be OK, but not so much if it is in the car.

BTW, Frank, good choice to go aluminum rather than fiber
 
I agree with tbird, and was wondering if the clamp would slip. I've always used a rag and never had a problem, but I think this warrants more study. When I get caught up I'm going to see about making some holding tool.

Don't hold your breath though..........I never seem to get caught up.:D
 
There are many long time methods that have worked fine for years. The are also "newer
ways of doing things. Easier/better, maybe, maybe not, but if it gets the job done what does it really matter what method is used. Submit you methods, reason for doing it that way and let the reader decide what method to use. Just because a person does not use your method is NOT a reflection on you in any way.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
There are many long time methods that have worked fine for years. The are also "newer
ways of doing things. Easier/better, maybe, maybe not, but if it gets the job done what does it really matter what method is used. Submit you methods, reason for doing it that way and let the reader decide what method to use. Just because a person does not use your method is NOT a reflection on you in any way.
Click to expand...

Hey Mike,
I agree. And, the method depends on if engine is in vehicle or on the 'bench'.
My method just accomplished on the engine stand, was to block the crank with crow/pry bar. Worked easy with bronze cam gear nut to 100 lbs.
 
I always put a clamp on the gear. Just take the side cover off. Then put a good strong clamp across the gear. If you do a lot of engines and have mill. Take a piece of steel mill out the center, drill and tap for a 1/2 bolt. That makes a great clamp.
 
Mitch//pa said:
you didn't chicken out if you did you would have put a fiber in. let us know how it sounds when you getter running
Click to expand...
I mean I was Afraid that the fiber gear would break sooner rather than later.
I figured that the aluminum would be stronger.
I heard the can running for several hours before the timing gear gave out.
So I will know if I heard a strange whine and then kick myself for choosing aluminum.
 
Regardless of how you tighten the gear, the MOST important part of this operation is to make sure you get the timing marks aligned correctly. JMO

Paul in CT
 
1931 flamingo said:
Regardless of how you tighten the gear, the MOST important part of this operation is to make sure you get the timing marks aligned correctly. JMO

Paul in CT
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up...
I am writing all the steps I need to take to get the job done...
Just so I don't leave anything out. This Model B engine is shoehorned in the vehicle.
 
Frank,

Thanks for your post, let us know if there are any big sound differences... I would guess as you have that the Aluminum will fail before the steal gear yet stronger than a fiber one...
 
Help, Looking for the timing mark on the crank gear....
I found the key, wedge, but not the timing mark?
Maybe my eyes are not so good.....
Cleaned off any grease or oil.
 
Tom W posted this picture.

Bob
 

Attachments

  • Timing Marks.jpg
    Timing Marks.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 199
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top