installing new engine in the 35

  • Thread starter Thread starter CP
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CP

Senior Member
1. I removed the stock temp gauge sender from the 37 head. after installing the new 59 block with offy heads, i noticed my sender does not "seat" inside the head like before. ..... is there an adapter i can get that will seat this correctly? the new head is a clear shot hole. the old head has a seat halfway down to make the sender tight. I'm sure one of you old guys knows what im talking about.... CP

2. i have a glass bowl fuel pump that worked great on the test stand. after install,...it faces the firewall. Can i simply undo the screws at the top of the pump and rotate as needed to align with my carb?

3. the headers i got from reds headers fit fine (pain in the &%&^) around the stock steering box. HOWEVER.....there is only a paper thickness of clearance. I'm thinking as the engine rolls around, i might be hitting the headers on occasion. I installed new motor mounts. should i add a couple washers on top of the motor mounts to get a "little" more clearance? i have not even tightened the motor mounts yet. Is there a way to pull the whole assembly closer to the rear? I'm thinking maybe the chatter rods need to be tightened more? (i dont want to snap the little tab on the block for the chatter rods)

4. my choke rod is 1/2" short to meet the center carb on the new engine. is there an adjustment? i "feel" a sleeve under the dash that looks like it acts like a turnbuckle of something, but dont want to go bending things without advice...

Thanks CP

To Paul AV8.....comon over this side of the bridge and ill make sure i drive to your next meeting. (Just bring your brain)......and a sixpack
 
#1...Ford made an adaptor for this, and the repro places sell them. Post-1939 senders seal at the pipe threads, the adapter goes in there and provides threads ending in a seat.
Also, I believe (never tried it) that the adaptors sold everywhere for aftermarket mechanical gauges will do the job...ask NAPA to look in the Stewart Warner book.
 
Yes to #2 you can split it and turn it anyway that suits you. # 4 if you have any bends in the rod now you can just straighten it a little and you will gain length. I also have connector sleves which you can install and lengthen about that amount. You have to cut the rod in two to do this unfortunally.But they work. ken ct. It has 2 set screws to tighten on the cut pcs.
 
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