Installing new dual points

Jakno

Jakno

Senior Member
Have to replace the points in my 1937 59A engine and wondering if anyone has a suggestion on a good way of accessing the distributor (underneath, over the fender, remove distributor, etc ) to do the point replacement.

Thanks for any experience.
 
Just take the whole distributor off. Three bolts and it's off. (Actually 2 if it's a later 59A engine). You can leave the cap and leads in place if it's a crab.

Mart.
 
It will fit only one way so you won't get it out of time. Just make sure the tang on the shaft fits into the slot in the cam so the distributor is flush to the block before tightening the bolts!
 
Mart. Thank You for taking the time to answer.
 

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The feedback on this site is amazing. I post a question and 20 minutes later I have an answer from England. I served in the US Army 1959 -1962 and spent two years in Germany. I used to mail letters to my family in Maine and it took a week or more to get there and the same to return.
 
Many front mount dist have been messed up by incorrect installation. After you have removed the distributor take a couple of bolts that fit the dist mounting holes and cut the heads off. Now to install screw in the headless bolts (studs) and slide the dist on. Turn the rotor until the tang lines up with the cam and the dist is tight against the block. Replace one stud with a bolt and then the other. This makes it practically impossible to bolt it on 180 deg off. It also lets you install the dist by feel. I like working from under the car ( I have ramps and it keeps me from working over the fenders) but it may depend on what fan setup you have.
 
One suggestion on 38bill’s idea is, make sure the “alignment bolts that you cut the heads off have a slot cut in the end of the bolt (hacksaw will do it) so you can use a short screwdriver to remove the bolts if they are too tight for fingers.
 
I have removed my distributor and ready to install new points. I marked all the plug wires to match the Dist Cap. The distributor position is marked on the block.
Just to confirm that I can remove old points, install new points and gap them and re-assemble without changing the timing ?.

Thank you for any comments
 

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Jakno: Check this video at around the 3 min to 4 min mark. I describe how it should go in. Basically it should just clunk into place with no resistance.

https://youtu.be/6UsbbUdAtCw

The points should be set up on a timing fixture, but basically if you have no such device, setting each pair to around .015" should get it running ok.

Mart.
 
If you look at the end of the cam you should notice that the slot is not in the center and there is more metal on one side of the slot then the other. Before the installation step, look at the back of your distributor and make sure the tang is set to mesh wide side to wide side and you will never break off a mounting tab. If the distributor doesn't fit flat up against the timing gear cover take another look at how the tang is engaging the cam.
I am 69 and started messing with flatheads when I was 12 and have never had a problem replacing a front mounted distributor.
 
For best results it needs to be setup on a machine to properly set the dwell, advance ,vacuum brake and timing.
 
Thank you Gentlemen. I'm growing bolder by the post. I'm 78 and wish I'd had access to this site 60 years ago !. Maybe next time around
 

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After all your help, I better not make a mess of this.


Anyone need a 33 project ?. I've given up on this one. Going to try and drive my 35
 

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