Installing new 292 engine into 1956 Tbird

[zuburg]

Is it safe to attach hoist to engine lift plate bolted to intake manifold in place of carburator to install engine? The plates I've seen only have 3 holes to attach to. Will that allow the hoist tilt device to still tilt enough? I would like to have the intake on before instsllation.

Is there a better place to attach the hoist? I attached the hoist to the 4 outside holes in the heads where the intake bolts to remove the old engine but was wondering if I could install the new one with the intake already installed. I'll include a picture of the hoist I will be using.

 

[Ole Don]

I like the four outside exhaust manifold bolts. That allows the top of the engine to remain sealed from dirt, but keep an eye on how the chains lay over the rocker covers.

 

[dmsfrr]

I like the size of the adjustable hoist bar you have but how to attach it with good lifting angles and not scratching something permanently has strained my brain.
My neighbor loaned me this one that bolts on in place of the carb. I had already taped over the carb holes. It lifted & tilted the engine and transmission no problem. I was concerned about the small size of the 4 bolts but they are grade 8 and worked fine.

 

[miker98038]

I used the same long tilt device you've got. Bolted to the intake bolts with the intake off. Done it more than once in the bird, and other cars. It's my first choice.

I had a shop once with an overhead beam and sliding chain hoist. That and the tilt bar really spoiled me.

 

[V8 Bob]

I bolt the 4 legs of a tilt lifter solid to the 4 end bolts on Y-block intake manifold and torque to spec. The reason I would not use a carb plate on a Y-block is the fairly lean manifold design in the area of the carb, and possibility of distorting the edges of the 4 manifold oval hold-downs. I also don't use carb plates on aluminum intakes, but that's my opinion and method.

 

[paul2748]

dmsfrr is right. I have used the same type of unit a number of times and helped others using the same unit. It's the best you can use in my opinion.

Any reason why you don't install the intake before putting the engine in? it would be easier.

I like the size of the adjustable hoist bar you have but how to attach it with good lifting angles and not scratching something permanently has strained my brain.
My neighbor loaned me this one that bolts on in place of the carb. I had already taped over the carb holes. It lifted & tilted the engine and transmission no problem. I was concerned about the small size of the 4 bolts but they are grade 8 and worked fine.

 

[y'sguy]

imho,I think it's best to just remove those valve covers whatever method of install you choose.

 

[Ford blue blood]

I have four chain "holders" that I bolt down to the exhaust manifold outer-upper holes. They extend above the valve covers. Fashioned pretty much after what the factory used. No dents, no "lost" fasteners in the engine and plenty of flexibility for tilt.

 

[zuburg]

I would like to, and thus the reason for my question. I wanted to be sure it was OK and how best to do it.

 

[zuburg]

I do plan to do that since I have to have them off to know when I have primed the engine with oil.

 

[zuburg]

I like this idea. Does anyone else agree this will work with my tilt device?

 

[bobss396]

I went and attached my HF leveler to the front and back of the heads since they were tapped. I cushioned them with pieces of nylon block with holes in them.

See how the leveler works with using the intake manifold holes. I was able to lift mine up and tilt it way back to start out and leveled it out as it went back to the firewall and down.

 

[paul2748]

Isn't there a rule about posting "dirty" pictures on the site LOL

I went and attached my HF leveler to the front and back of the heads since they were tapped. I cushioned them with pieces of nylon block with holes in them.

See how the leveler works with using the intake manifold holes. I was able to lift mine up and tilt it way back to start out and leveled it out as it went back to the firewall and down.

 

[miker98038]

I'm with Paul. I think I spotted a speck of dust between the fins on one valve cover.

Seriously, great looking motors, both of you.

 

[bobss396]

Well, I'm both a Chevy and Ford guy for years. I've had Mustangs, Fairlanes, Falcons and Galaxies. And Novas, Chevelles, Belairs and a lot of trucks.

This car is the best of both worlds. I had the SBC left over from my stock car days and I've probably knocked 200 lbs off the stock weight of the car, in the right place.

To get 400+ HP out of a FE would have been 2X what the SBC took. If you're gonna put a SBC in a Ford, it has to be pretty stout.

 

[scicala]

You're SBC looks plenty stout. I'm also a little open minded and like all makes. The SBC has to be popular for some reason, and that's affordable and reliable horsepower. Had one in my '52 Customline in the 80's, but was planning on a Chrysler 413 with cross ram in my '55 Ranch Wagon, but I've stalled on the project and want to sell it.

Going back to the post topic, the only problem with lifting a Y-Bock by the front and rear of the heads is that they never had any accessory holes there, but would be my preferred method too.

Sal

 

[dmsfrr]

.... the only problem with lifting a Y-Bock by the front and rear of the heads is that they never had any accessory holes there, but would be my preferred method too.
Sal

I noticed that too when I needed to move this long block and didn't want to chance bending the intake studs or valves with a chain. This nylon strap worked great.
.

 

[zuburg]

As I recall, the original Ford tool for pulling/installing an engine were hooks that gripped the exhaust manifolds. I suppose one could fabricate some sturdy hooks and go that route?

 

[bobss396]

Exhaust manifold bolt holes are good, but you have to lose the valve covers.