Installing battery disconnect

D

dgkipp

Member
Hi guys, want to install battery disconnect on my 35.
Which battery wire should be interrupted the positive or negative ,or does it matter?
 
Doesn't matter. Exactly like pulling either of the battery terminals. Either will break any parasitic drain you might have.
 
Either one will work and the one you use will be wrong half of the time. I disconnected the ground and it works for me.
 
LOL...Jseery. Did I step into something that I shouldn't have?? Batteries are a part of a circuit that start at one terminal and end at the other. Break that circuit at either terminal and the battery doesn't know if it's sitting on the parts store shelf or in a car. Is this another one of those "gravity bends a crankshaft" or "my engine is running backward" situations? Still new here so when the vets step back to see how things play out...I get a little nervous!
 
Is this another one of those "gravity bends a crankshaft" or "my engine is running backward" situations?
Yep, something like that.
 
Round # what :D

R
 

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Jseery, I stayed out of those two threads on purpose because I didn't want to spoil the fun everybody was having. I'm not sure Henry accounted for all this Galactic stuff when building these engines but they seem to be doing OK. I guess I should start a thread announcing my pride in a droopy crank!
 
Install on the hot side as close to the battery as possible. You want to minimize the length of the hot lead between the battery and switch to limit the potential length of wire that can short when the switch is in the "off" position.

Not that anyone here is racing their old Fords, but NHRA rules require the master disconnect switch to be on the positive lead, as well as kill all electrical functions. The 2nd part requires some additional wiring beyond just sticking a big honkin' switch in the battery cable.
 
itslow said:
Install on the hot side as close to the battery as possible. You want to minimize the length of the hot lead between the battery and switch to limit the potential length of wire that can short when the switch is in the "off" position.

Not that anyone here is racing their old Fords, but NHRA rules require the master disconnect switch to be on the positive lead, as well as kill all electrical functions. The 2nd part requires some additional wiring beyond just sticking a big honkin' switch in the battery cable.
Click to expand...

Mike, If you want to minimize the chance of the hot lead shorting put the switch in the ground lead and nothing will hot when the switch is off!
Bill
 
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