installing a cotter pin in a castle Nut

FrankWest said:
Ha HA. so cute
In determining the size cotter pin, Should the cotter pin fit pretty tight into the hole, requiring a gentle tap to push thru.
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Does not have to be tight but should just slip in without hammering in.
 

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There are accepted practices for everything. Use the largest one that will fit, without force.
 

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I am assuming you refer to the "legs" of the cotter pin extending below the nut after installation. One leg should be brought up over the center of the nut, while the other can be clipped off flush with the other side of the nut.
 
When I put my brand "C" car back together, I clamped the legs of the cotter pins in a vise and twisted the entire head 90º. Then, I was able to install them with the head nestled nicely in the slot of the nut and nicely wrap the legs around to the sides. This gives you the best of both methods in post #5 above.
 
^^ I read somewhere that was the preferred method of Rolls Royce. I could just be perpetuating another internet myth, though.

Mart.
 
Buy a '33-'34 chassis parts catalogue reprint as all of the original size cotter pins are listed with each application. There's no need to guess when the specific information is readily available.
 
Here we call them cotter keys. Or at least places I've worked. I was instructed to cut the long key as it exited the hole in the nut, and bend the short key over the top of the nut. Also if the bolt or shaft had a counter sink on it's end you were to punch the end into it. Reason so didn't cut your hand up greasing or working on the car or to be a catch all. But then those were the days when we had pride as a mechanic. And seemed to have more time in the day!
 
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I have worked on literally hundreds of Rolls', from early to modern, never noticed anything different about the way the cotter pins were installed !!
 
DavidG said:
Buy a '33-'34 chassis parts catalogue reprint as all of the original size cotter pins are listed with each application. There's no need to guess when the specific information is readily available.
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Is this the infamous Green Book?
 
Some of the nastiest cuts I've had coming out from under a car have been from a cotter pin ripping my knuckles. Set the legs in a position that allows straightening for removal at a future time, while pointing those dagger sharp tips toward the nut rather than where your knuckles will find them.
 
ford38v8 said:
Some of the nastiest cuts I've had coming out from under a car have been from a cotter pin ripping my knuckles. Set the legs in a position that allows straightening for removal at a future time, while pointing those dagger sharp tips toward the nut rather than where your knuckles will find them.
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Thanks for your concerns..I greatly appreciate it!
 
The long leg 3/4 of the way over the bolt shank and short end down below the castle slot is the most common and easiest to disassemble. The two legs bent around the flats of the nut is generally used where the nut holds a rotating shaft in place. On the helicopters I put the long leg up and over the first castle and bend it down into the castle slot & tuck it in. This way the tail won't cut you while your wiping down the equipment for inspection. This is mostly just a helicopter thing though. I've been cut pretty bad by tails before and that's why I do it.

As long as there is a pin in the hole and the tails are bent, it will do the job.
 
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