Installing a B head/any TIPS?

B

Banky

Senior Member
Hi all, my buddy Flop here on the board scored me a B police head! I am going to be putting it on as soon as I get my gasket. I know how to replace a head, no issue there.

However, any good tips or tricks from those who have done this a thousand times? Anything different I need to know about the B head? I got the correct gasket.

Thanks in advance!
Banky
 
Banky said:
Hi all, my buddy Flop here on the board scored me a B police head! I am going to be putting it on as soon as I get my gasket. I know how to replace a head, no issue there.

However, any good tips or tricks from those who have done this a thousand times? Anything different I need to know about the B head? I got the correct gasket.

Thanks in advance!
Banky
Click to expand...
What kind of head gasket are you going to use? If it is a Model A gasket, you will have to plug the steam holes that don't get covered by the gasket or it will leak. You might not have a problem with a Model B gasket.
 
James, any way you could show me a picture of what holes to plug????? I was unaware of this! I called Snyders and asked them which gasket to use, and bought the one they suggested.

Also, how do I go about plugging them?

THANKS!!!!
Banky
 
1. The Model B head made for a Model B engine has (2) "extra" holes to match the (2) "extra" holes in a Model B block; for which these (2) "extra holes are not found in Model A blocks or heads.

2. Don't remember seeing extra holes in a Model A Police Head which is marked "B" -- maybe missed them; however, years ago, I mixed Model A & Model B heads, gaskets, & blocks in "all" combinations & never was told that the (2) "extra" holes had to be plugged & must have been extremely fortunate because I never developed leaks.

3. Before removing a head & installing any "borrowed" head, or "used" head, always a good idea to check for "flatness" -- especially with a Model A Police Head marked "B" with increased pressure in the combustion chamber.

4. Vintage mechanic's lesson heard years ago for a typical method for a rookie to warp any Model A or Model B head:

A. Run engine until attaining operating temperature, & stop engine.

B. Check oil on dip stick.

C. Observe milky colored oil, i.e., water mixed with oil; or, observe no water in oil.

D. Get a wrench & immediately remove head before it cools off; plus loosen head nuts all the way one at a time, while head is hot, as opposed to first waiting for the head to "totally" cool, then carefully loosen nuts in reverse order of recommended sequence for tightening.

Hope this helps.
 
I guess I can hold the gasket up to both the block and the head to compare.

Copper spray or gasket maker, thoughts? I usually use the cooper spray.

I'm crazy excited to put this B head on! I really dig that it is a period piece. Though I know the Snyders delivers a little more compression.
 
Hi Banky,

Non-hardening "Permatex No. 2" came out & was extensively used during Model T days, prior to Model A's, & on all types of vintage vehicles.

It still is an excellent gasket sealer -- just sealed a "complete" engine & transmission with same -- spread the sealer with a small metal handle brush that is designed & used to apply solder flux -- not a single leak anywhere.
 
I think he's talking about a police head with the B on it not a Model B
head with the C on it. Does the head have a three or four bolt water pump?

Bob
 
Banky said:
Police head with a B on it. A water pump style.
Click to expand...
That makes it a whole nother ball game! Just put it on like any other Model A head, which it is. The OP was a bit vague in the description and I took it wrong. The Model B head is different and has a 3 bolt pump.
 
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