Smooth_One
Senior Member
Do you think the 4 gauge cable would get warm after a while or your just talking about low amps for the size?
Installed battery cutoff switch today.
- Thread starter Smooth_One
- Start date
Do you think the 4 gauge cable would get warm after a while or your just talking about low amps for the size?
Smooth_One
Senior Member
I obviously didn't install mine but mine is located under the dash.
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Looks good. I just don't like seeing the switch on the other side of the firewall.
Russ/40
Well-known member
I don't think that would be an issue. The use of 4 gauge wire is perfect for 12 volts, but becomes current limiting at 6 volts when cranking an engine to start. Beyond starting, the 4 gauge is OK for everything else.
You may be just fine starting, but as soon as age starts its process of oxidation it will creep up on you and some day it'll be cranking too slow and you'll be wondering why. If you stay with the 4 gauge, just be mindful of the issue. Keep connections pristine.
Russ/40
Well-known member
Not familiar with seat mounting in a sedan, I don't know if you have a seat riser like in the trucks, rdstrs etc. The front of the seat riser just below your left leg would be ideal, as it is close to the battery, and minimal cabling would be needed.
By the way, I like your sedan. What is the story with it. History....
By the way, I like your sedan. What is the story with it. History....
Smooth_One
Senior Member
Thanks for the input!
My Tudor came from just north of Detroit from my father in-law. He’s owned it since 1962. He drove it a ton back then and then he bought a few more A’s and had one or two Model T’s so the Tudor got parked for around 30 years and hasn’t been touched til I got it.
Cave
Member
Nice install Smooth_One! The PO installed the same one in my '31 coupe. To save opening the hood so often I fabricated an extension rod that reaches the switch and protrudes out a little under the hood (there was adequate clearance without having to modify the hood).
I drilled and tapped the switch handle to accommodate the eyebolt and put a dab of JBWeld (not shown) on it to keep it snug. I bent a 1/4" threaded rod - note: I ground off the threads before heating and bending, experience told me that threads sometimes tear through the stock when bent. Then I covered it with 1/4" shrink tubing to hide the threads. Finally one more stainless steel eyebolt to make an outside support.
Purists will balk, I'm ok, I drive it for me, not others.
I drilled and tapped the switch handle to accommodate the eyebolt and put a dab of JBWeld (not shown) on it to keep it snug. I bent a 1/4" threaded rod - note: I ground off the threads before heating and bending, experience told me that threads sometimes tear through the stock when bent. Then I covered it with 1/4" shrink tubing to hide the threads. Finally one more stainless steel eyebolt to make an outside support.
Purists will balk, I'm ok, I drive it for me, not others.
Smooth_One
Senior Member
Nice install Smooth_One! The PO installed the same one in my '31 coupe. To save opening the hood so often I fabricated an extension rod that reaches the switch and protrudes out a little under the hood (there was adequate clearance without having to modify the hood).
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I drilled and tapped the switch handle to accommodate the eyebolt and put a dab of JBWeld (not shown) on it to keep it snug. I bent a 1/4" threaded rod - note: I ground off the threads before heating and bending, experience told me that threads sometimes tear through the stock when bent. Then I covered it with 1/4" shrink tubing to hide the threads. Finally one more stainless steel eyebolt to make an outside support.
Purists will balk, I'm ok, I drive it for me, not others.
Very nice. Thanks for sharing! Simple but clean fab work there.
Smooth_One
Senior Member
I did run another 4 gauge ground cable from a spot i cleaned down to bare metal on the frame and then to a clean spot on the bell housing. I'm also going to run another one on the passenger side in the same spots for peace of mind.
We''ll see how it works.
The starter spins waaaayyy faster with the ground attached! Very noticeable difference!
When I get some worn engine parts replaced I will replace all motor mounts and clean the frame to regain some lost frame ground.
Steves46
Well-known member
Mine is mounted under the floor on a bracket I made from 1/8" aluminum, screwed to the bottom of the wood cross piece. I then made an extension to the shaft where the handle mounts so that the handle is just above the level of the carpet under the front edge of the seat. Yes, a hole drilled through the wood floorboard behind the steel cross member. Very unobtrusive and easily accessed.
With the switch there, I can easily disconnect the entire system from the battery (which I do as I exit the car).
Problems of concern that the switch being easily accessible address:
* A stuck starter switch ( have seen happen).
* Stuck brake light switch.
* Reverse drain through alternator when not running.
* Short behind the dash panel.
* Theft prevention.
* Forgotten headlights or turn signals.
(I'm sure there are others, I invite contributions.)
Edit to add a picture showing the switch through floor board, no carpets installed at that time.[/QUOTE
With regards to the reverse drain to the Alternator, explanation please? I have one of these switches and also have an alternator...does this mean I need to shut off the switch every time I drive the car and stop somewhere like a car show? I had to get a jump start today and wondered if this could have happened
Bill G
Well-known member
Maybe his are external links rather than stored in the Ford Barn forum.
The alternator regulator draws a few milliamps at all times. Same for electronic cutout regulators and turn signal e-flashers. Shouldn't be a battery drain issue unless the car is parked for an extended period (weeks/months).
