Installation new spark and throttle rods ?

C26Pinelake

C26Pinelake

BANNED
The finish is wore off the originals and I want to replace them. Do I have to remove the steering wheel to install the new rods. This is a 1929 Pickup Roadster.
Thanks wayne
 
Yes, the steering wheel needs to be removed. I've had quite a time getting the pins out of the arms at the bottoms of the rods also. The original rods had a rubber sleeve half way down the rod, so it doesn't rattle against the steering column. Repro sleeves are felt.
 
Yes. the rod levers are under the steering wheel and they pull out from the top. The wheel must come off first. If you are just replacing the arms on the bottom of the lever where the linkage attachés, no.

Having said that, if it is the finish on the bottom of the levers where the control arms mount, they were originally painted black along with the arms and springs. Only the top part of the arms where the levers are were plated.
Hope that helps,
Jon
 
Rather than trying to drive or drill the old pins that hold the forged levers on the bottom of the rod, it is easier to shear them off. Use a socket that has a slightly larger inner diameter than the spark/throttle rods. Brace the hand lever end of the rods against your workbench or the floor. Place the socket against the little forged control arm and wrap it with a hammer (working against the spring). A good wrap will shear the soft original pins. New pins can be bought from most Model A parts vendors. You just have to pick the remains of the old pins out of the forged levers to reuse the levers. Make sure you take note of the orientation of the forged lever balls so the linkages can be reassembled properly.
 
When you install the lower levers, you can use roll-pins & not have to rivet them.Ive had to grind off the plateing that extends 6" or so down the rods in order for the rods to fit all the way into the top bushing.To fit the anti-rattle sleeves,you will need to remove the top bushing & fit the rods & anti-rattlers in position & then install them as a unit in the top of the column.It can be a little tricky to line up the rods with the holes on the bottom,especially if the column is still in the car.
 
Be careful if trying to use a punch to knock the pins out of the control arms at the bottom of the levers after grinding the pin heads off. Very easy to break the protrusion that holds the spring off of the steering tube with a mishit by a big hammer. Try Brian's (post#4) method. Don't ask......
 
Also, don't loose track of the old lower control arms. The new one's are aluminum and sort of junky.
 
Tom,
I don't recall but they were so bad that the holes for the pins didn't even match up.
This was about a year ago.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top