Install oil filter

AnthonyG

AnthonyG

Well-known member
Got my 8BA apart for other reasons some might know about, thinking I might as well put an oil filter set up while apart. What’s best & How to? Oil pan off heads off, block in indexing stand.
 
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Depends on what you are wanting, I like the 95% setup. It is fairly simple to do. If you want full-flow there are several approaches.
 
J u got way more experience than me. Assuming 95% must b good if unlike? I think that pulls oil to filter from top rear oil port where normally oil pressure transducer goes then how’s it get back into oil pan? Is there a kit?
 
The process requires drilling/tapping in the oil passages. Maybe not a good idea on an assembled engine unless one has a way to keep chips from ending up in the engine.
 
No kits that I am aware of, but fairly simple parts to set up.
 

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I did what is depicted in the sketches above but I also plugged the passage going from the pump cavity to the rear main. I then drilled a new passage down from the fuel pump push rod to the rear main and added the hole to the bearing. This way all three mains feed off of the center tube and are fully filtered. Going like the sketch shows will not filter the rear main or rod bearing. This couldn't be done on an assembled engine.
 
With the low mileage and general overall pampering these cars usually get, the original bypass system is just fine. As a matter of fact, in most situations it may be superior to the alternatives because it will remove smaller particles than a system using a regular full flow element. When was the last time you ran your car down an old dusty dirt road? Or went 5000 miles between oil changes? If you are subjecting your vehicle to these extreme conditions, you may want to consider upgrading the system, but for most of us, the bypass system is just fine. The common knock on these systems is that all of the oil does not get filtered as it passes through the pump and supply system. That may be, but I think it was someone on here who did some experimenting and found that all of the oil goes through the filter in a five minute period. With the finer filtration capabilities provided, it's perfectly adequate and possibly a better way to go.
 
tubman said:
With the low mileage and general overall pampering these cars usually get, the original bypass system is just fine. As a matter of fact, in most situations it may be superior to the alternatives because it will remove smaller particles than a system using a regular full flow element. When was the last time you ran your car down an old dusty dirt road? Or went 5000 miles between oil changes? If you are subjecting your vehicle to these extreme conditions, you may want to consider upgrading the system, but for most of us, the bypass system is just fine. The common knock on these systems is that all of the oil does not get filtered as it passes through the pump and supply system. That may be, but I think it was someone on here who did some experimenting and found that all of the oil goes through the filter in a five minute period. With the finer filtration capabilities provided, it's perfectly adequate and possibly a better way to go.
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Totally agree and it was I who determined that at idle speed, 5 quarts of oil
goes thru the bypass filter in 11 minutes, as it does thru the Amsoil bypass filter I adapted to mine.


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Unless I change my mind,,,,I’m gonna go with the stock filter system.
I’m not gonna change it extra,,,I’m just going to change it when it is supposed to be and use good oil.

Tommy
 
Good thinking Tommy. My '51 has the stock filter and keeps the oil real clean. Don't try to out engineer the engineers.
 
I'm building a 276 cu in and plan on using stock oil filter. I have a 1942 Ford GPW jeep all original and oil stays clean.
 
Thanks Estout,,,,
It is good to hear an encouraging post about stock filters.

Even with my everyday off topic stuff,,,I still check the dipstick.
As long as the oil on the stick is honey golden,,,it’s still fresh.
After it turns a lite brown,,,it is getting contaminated some.
Dark brown ,,start looking at the mileage and figure a time to change it.
It’s not just mileage,,,,,just like hours on an industrial engine,,and idle hours,,,,oil gets contaminated from fuel .
Anyway,,that is my plan.

Tommy
 
Looks like whether full flow or 95% flow the return hole in rear of engine needs to B drill & tapped creating potential for metal chips in flow path. As I’m not doing a rebuild & just replacing a piston indications r not to do. Guess I’ll pass & just keep changing oil every 1500 miles.
 
I have an engine mount for the filter that I use once in awhile, however after everything is said and done I move the oil filter to a bracket behind the steering box. In my truck, it on the trans mount crossmember. I do this to clean up the engine, looks better.
 
51 Merc-CT, the top pic is ur setup, in it I see the oil comes out of the provided threaded hole usually used for oil pressure transducer then goes through ur AMS filter then out & downward following dip stick tube. But where does it go back into engine where it goes out of sight? Also did u increase the size of the NPT threaded hole where oil out is?
 
AnthonyG said:
51 Merc-CT, the top pic is ur setup, in it I see the oil comes out of the provided threaded hole usually used for oil pressure transducer then goes through ur AMS filter then out & downward following dip stick tube. But where does it go back into engine where it goes out of sight? Also did u increase the size of the NPT threaded hole where oil out is?
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The oil returns to where it normally does from the original bypass filter to the side of the block.


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51 Mercury-CT, Thx, got it! So ur happy w results, how many miles since conversion? I can use oil pressure port NPT threaded hole (W/O larger drill tap modification) as supply to filter if I see correctly? Looks like u use the lower ( 90 degree indexed) oil pressure port hole for ur oil pressure transducer?
 
AnthonyG said:
51 Mercury-CT, Thx, got it! So ur happy w results, how many miles since conversion? I can use oil pressure port NPT threaded hole (W/O larger drill tap modification) as supply to filter if I see correctly? Looks like u use the lower ( 90 degree indexed) oil pressure port hole for ur oil pressure transducer?
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Be sure you understand how this type of filter works. It is basically the same as the original by-pass filter (which is a good filter system). But, it require a restrictor to keep the oil pressure up going to the engine. Without the restrictor you are shortcutting the oil path to the engine and reducing the oil flow.


Also, there is no reason to drill the return into the block. Drilling the oil pan would be much simpler. If I were doing this modification I would put a 90 deg fitting through the oil pan with a short extension on the inside to direct the return oil toward the bottom of the pan.

Update: drilling the oil pan would apply to a 59a block, not an 8ba!
 
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