INSTALING STUDS

I use Permatex #2. I hope you did NOT tap the threads. They were made to have a slight interference fit with the studs.

Do not be surprised if you get one or more leaks around the hex nuts. That's common and nearly always it cures itself with a few short drives.
 
Leak Lock
 

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I use Permatex #2. I hope you did NOT tap the threads. They were made to have a slight interference fit with the studs.

Do not be surprised if you get one or more leaks around the hex nuts. That's common and nearly always it cures itself with a few short drives.
Listen to him! My neighbor made this mistake, and I made this mistake on my first flathead builds. I had a hell of a time getting the studs all sealed after tapping them. If you've ever watched a factory assembly line film it looks like there is nothing on the studs when they run them in, why because of the interference fit on the threads makes the seal. I was a professional mechanic, and I always ran taps in every hole on an engine and I did that to my first flathead, bad mistake. Unfortunately, you do not do this on a flathead Ford head. I had never heard of interference threads, and I did this for a living. I had all kinds of books on flathead rebuilding and in none of them did it mention the interference threads on the head studs. I ended up pulling the studs and drowning them in blue Loctite to seal them up. I suppose you could get the correct "interference" thread tap but I'm not taking a chance, no taps.
 
I only do 8BA's, so I use an Genuine Ford 8BA head bolt with 4 grooves ground into it with grinding wheel in a rotary tool.

What say you, Mike?
 
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