input ahaft repair

[larry harding]

i was just watching one of john karel's video on ****** repair. he mentioned that the worn end of the input shaft could be repaired by sleeving. at nearly $200 for a new shaft, that sounds like a good idea. the snout that goes in the pilot bearing is not very hard and could be easily turned down. if any one has done this i'd like some pointers. i've got an old shaft or two i could practice on. practice on. thanks for suggestions.

 

[Bob C]

There was a thread some years back with the part number for a bearing with the same OD of the pilot bearing but the ID was smaller.


Found the thread, go to post #9 in the link.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15707&highlight=size+pilot+bearing

 

[J Franklin]

There was a thread some years back with the part number for a bearing with the same OD of the pilot bearing but the ID was smaller.


Found the thread, go to post #9 in the link.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15707&highlight=size+pilot+bearing

A guy once was selling this setup at the Portland swapmeet a few years back. He said it was a metric sized bearing.

 

[Bob C]

A guy once was selling this setup at the Portland swapmeet a few years back. He said it was a metric sized bearing.

The pilot bearing is metric. ID 17mm, OD 40mm,
W 12mm. The bearing with the smaller ID is 15.875 mm
or 5/8".

 

[Bigsnapper43]

I'v done this repair as per the article. The bearing race is a Torrington, If you do'nt find the article give me a call. 740 658 3495

 

[Synchro909]

I've sleeved a worn input shaft to take the correct 17mm ID bearing. Easy and back to original - perfect!
BTW, all of the bearings in the Model A gearbox and I suspect the differential too are metric. A couple of years ago, I took apart an original gearbox and noted that all of the bearings were made in Italy.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

This slide depicts what I do to repair the transmission input shaft. This fix works and I have thousands of miles on the last one I did.

 

[Bruce of MN]

How do you assure concentricity without turning the jb weld down in a lathe?

 

[Fullraceflathead]

You really can't accurately do that it needs to be in a lathe or on V. blocks!!!

 

[Joe K]

I've done this with a short piece of 3/8" seamless pipe from the power plant.

You ream out the inside of the pipe to a standard size. (As pipe is made its not too uniform in wall thickness or concentric between outside and in.)

Then you turn the input shaft stub end to give about 1.5 thousandths INTERFERENCE FIT. Maybe give the stub a half a thousandths taper to ease going on.

Then you press it on bathing liberally with Locktite No. 243 formerly "red" loctite. See https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/articles/choosing-the-right-threadlocker.html

Let it "set" overnight. Then holding the shaft between centers, turn the od of the stub/pipe to be a "strong fit" in the new bearing. I've "knurled" the fit once which requires the shaft stub to be tapped in with a hammer - but assures that the bearing moves in the flywheel and not the shaft stub in the bearing. I suspect "tight" would be good enough and much like the original.

Joe K

 

[Fullraceflathead]

Joe K. has the right idea using The input shaft in between centers will produce perfect concentricity

 

[katy]

6203-16-2rs