Inner wheel bearing

Wildturkey

Junior Member
When I place the inner wheel bearing on the spindle, I note that the inner ring turns on the spindle. Does the hub prevent this turning when it is tightened? Some mechanics score the spindle with a punch so that the bearing must be pressed on. This, at least temporarily, keeps the inner ring from spinning. Is this scoring recommended? If the inner ring spins, is the bearing acting more as a bushing than a bearing?
 
The bearing should slide right on the spindle by hand. It is not a press fit. You should not be able to rock the race at all once it's in place. If it rocks try replacing the bearing and if it still rocks replace the spindle. I think the race is supposed to creep on the spindle to even out the wear on the race.

I would not recommend scoring or punching a spindle surface as you may be inviting a future crack.
 
With tapered roller bearings (ie: front wheel bearings in the Model A and subsequent Fords), when the weight of the car is placed on the wheels, the wedge action between the bearing races and the cones forces the cone out-wards, against the spindle for the inner bearing and the washer on the outer bearing.

The friction between the side face of the bearing and surface it is bearing against is usually greater than the rolling resistance between the rollers and the races, so the inner hub of the bearing tends to stay put, and the rollers & cage revolve around it.

"Snug" is fine; you should not have to pry it off or tap it on...

The outer races, on the other hand, should be a very tight fit in the hub (drive-in / out). If the race is loose in the hub, it will "work" and wallow-out the hub... had this happen with my '41 De Soto...
 
It's interesting what Ron said about the race "creeping" on the spindle to even out wear..........I read an article in Skinned Knuckles magazine years ago which basically stated this...and how important it is to grease the spindle shaft before pushing on the bearing...this is because the inner hub of the brg. race slowly rotates on the shaft, utilizing the entire 360 surface over the brg's lifetime.
This "theory" seems consistant with the wear one finds on the bottom of old spindles...you don't have to look all that close to see the lines from the bearing hub rotating and wearing.

I believe there's no harm in ensuring these surfaces are extra clean, & greased, before the bearing is slid into place.
 
I feel that it IS necessary to torque the wheel bearing nut to a minimum of 8 to 10 foot pounds in order to keep the inner bearing flat against the spindle surface and to keep both bearings and races in proper contact and alignment so that they're not wiggly woggling around and beating themselves to pieces. I think loose bearings cause some of the metal flaking that's sometimes seen in wheel bearings. And surely, rollers in firm contact and alignment with the races will be more efficient in moving the grease around.
Timken bearings, packed properly with high quality, high temp. dics brake grease, and torqued properly, should be able to go 30,000 miles between packings. These bearings are the same design and similar size as most modern cars.
 
Could someone explain the procedure to remove and replace the inner and outer race, is a heavy press needed or can they be done with basic stuff. I have just bought new bearings and race's for the front.
 
Could someone explain the procedure to remove and replace the inner and outer race, is a heavy press needed or can they be done with basic stuff. I have just bought new bearings and race's for the front.

Inner race should come off the spindle with ordinary hand tools. Outer race (in the hub) is driven out with a punch. Look into the outer end of the hub and you will see two cut out areas where the punch is applied. If there are no cut out areas there may be a lip on the race visible to apply the punch. Be sure to drive it out a little on each side at a time and not get it cocked. It has been a while and I am not sure that all hubs will have the cut outs.

Charlie Stephens
 
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