inner front wheel bearing race
- Thread starter rusted
- Start date
Patrick L.
Well-known member
If the cup isn't too loose, then the old Ford approved way was to *****/center punch several/many dimples around the cup seating area and reinstall the cup. It'll center itself.
I didn't think much of that idea when young [ brought up in a Ford and Studebaker store], but, it works.
I didn't think much of that idea when young [ brought up in a Ford and Studebaker store], but, it works.
Tom Endy
Well-known member
A loose race will cause the wheel to wobble when you apply the brakes. I had a similar situation. I replaced the hub. Not a fun job as you have to cut the swage on the studs and press them out without warping the hub or the drum and then swage the replacement hub to the drum with new studs with a 20 ton press (without warping or breaking anything) and then turn the drum to get it concentric.
You want to have this kind of work done at a Model A place by a Model A person or they will surely do it wrong and damage something.
I have heard that there are repair sleeves around. In this case you would machine the area where the race is and press the sleeve in that would accept the standard race. I don't know who carries them though.
Tom Endy
You want to have this kind of work done at a Model A place by a Model A person or they will surely do it wrong and damage something.
I have heard that there are repair sleeves around. In this case you would machine the area where the race is and press the sleeve in that would accept the standard race. I don't know who carries them though.
Tom Endy
Barry B./ Ma.
Well-known member
I would think Loctite bearing retainer would work.
johnbuckley
Well-known member
"I would think Loctite bearing retainer would work."
Yes it does- get the best loctite product for the job ( ask you central loctite product helpline if you have such a thing overthere) - pricey but works well and cheaper than fully re-machining.
Yes it does- get the best loctite product for the job ( ask you central loctite product helpline if you have such a thing overthere) - pricey but works well and cheaper than fully re-machining.
This is a little against my grain.. but I'm going to share a fix I've done a couple of times where guys had to watch their budget or the drum was exceptionally good but the hub had the outer race issue.
One day I looked at the hub... and I said to myself, (knowing the hub was pressed steel) and I thought..... If it can get out of shape running too loose and getting a little out of shape causing the race to turn, it shold go back as well... If you notice there are 4-flats on the hub where they pressed the race stops into the steel hub.
With the Race OUT....I placed the hub snout sideways hanging off my bench and gave the hub a wack with my large brass hammer on the surface where each flat... That would be 4 around the hub, evenly. Re-install race and Amazingly.. the race was very tight and once mounting on my brake lathe I expected the drum to be incredibly out and it was not. A very light turn is always in order to true them up once mechanical service is rendered to any drum ( stud replacement, banding, races, etc. Very light cuts to just true are
I have done this several times since... again, not my first choice ( which incidentally is the rocky mountain style late '31 & service replacement drums 1-piece cast) and then new cast irons.... but the method does seem to have done the trick well for the ones I have done. One gentleman has over 5K on it since.. I have checked it twice in that time period and the hub is just fine. I think Cylindrical locking fluid is a good thing to do along with it...
Another thing that would help/prevent this further but is an item of variance would be a stainless thinwall sleeve around the hub to give it strength and prevent the hub from getting out of shape. Maybe food for thought..??
Whatever it's worth.. on a case by case basis this is an option.
A note of caution: Always... always keep safety and spindle/bearing/wheel integrity in mind when setting wheel bearing preload, rear axle tightening, and lug nut tightening. Your life as well as possible someone else's relies on it!
Happy Model A'ing!
Larry Shepard
One day I looked at the hub... and I said to myself, (knowing the hub was pressed steel) and I thought..... If it can get out of shape running too loose and getting a little out of shape causing the race to turn, it shold go back as well... If you notice there are 4-flats on the hub where they pressed the race stops into the steel hub.
With the Race OUT....I placed the hub snout sideways hanging off my bench and gave the hub a wack with my large brass hammer on the surface where each flat... That would be 4 around the hub, evenly. Re-install race and Amazingly.. the race was very tight and once mounting on my brake lathe I expected the drum to be incredibly out and it was not. A very light turn is always in order to true them up once mechanical service is rendered to any drum ( stud replacement, banding, races, etc. Very light cuts to just true are
I have done this several times since... again, not my first choice ( which incidentally is the rocky mountain style late '31 & service replacement drums 1-piece cast) and then new cast irons.... but the method does seem to have done the trick well for the ones I have done. One gentleman has over 5K on it since.. I have checked it twice in that time period and the hub is just fine. I think Cylindrical locking fluid is a good thing to do along with it...
Another thing that would help/prevent this further but is an item of variance would be a stainless thinwall sleeve around the hub to give it strength and prevent the hub from getting out of shape. Maybe food for thought..??
Whatever it's worth.. on a case by case basis this is an option.
A note of caution: Always... always keep safety and spindle/bearing/wheel integrity in mind when setting wheel bearing preload, rear axle tightening, and lug nut tightening. Your life as well as possible someone else's relies on it!
Happy Model A'ing!
Larry Shepard
Last edited:
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
And remember, LOOSE RACES are caused by loosey-goosey adjusted wheel bearings done by someone without any common sense or who WON'T listen to advise on HOW to adjust them for SAFE & PROPER operation!
MY LORD, wheel bearings re-packed with high quality, high temp, disc brake grease, will run for 30,000 miles, with one re-adjustment at 15,000 miles! That's MORE MILES than most of us have left on OUR BODY ODOMETER! Jist think, you won't ever have to mess with packin' them again!
Giv'em at least 5 to 10 FT LBS PRE-LOAD. IF you just CAIN'T make yourself do that, at least adjust them to NO, NADA, ZILCH, clearance
You CAIN'T even set yo' toe in with loose bearings, May as well let Yo' Dog
"SITE" in yo' TOE-IN!
"Grumpy" Bill W.
MY LORD, wheel bearings re-packed with high quality, high temp, disc brake grease, will run for 30,000 miles, with one re-adjustment at 15,000 miles! That's MORE MILES than most of us have left on OUR BODY ODOMETER! Jist think, you won't ever have to mess with packin' them again!
Giv'em at least 5 to 10 FT LBS PRE-LOAD. IF you just CAIN'T make yourself do that, at least adjust them to NO, NADA, ZILCH, clearance
You CAIN'T even set yo' toe in with loose bearings, May as well let Yo' Dog
"SITE" in yo' TOE-IN!"Grumpy" Bill W.
Attachments
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
Larry, your comment makes me feel like all the time I spend doing this is WORTHWHILE. YES! I'm crusty, opinionated, etc, etc, But I only post stuff that has worked well for me, NOT stuff that I heard SUMWHERE???? Watch for my quotation marks """"" Like, "I THINK", "MAYBE", "SOMEONE SAID", YOU "MIGHT TRY"
The smart assed Dog
just asked me, "You gotta' attaboy certificate fur wheel bearing 101"?-----"I'll go look"!---------"I found one for BATCHELOR COOKIN"
Bill W.
