Inner bearing rotates on the spindle

My experience is that the most I have seen rotate slightly. I have also seen many peened shafts to prevent rotation. I don't think it is a big problem if they rotate. What is a problem is if the inner race rotates. This will cause wheel wobble when braking or turning. The only remedy I would use is to replace the spindle. Serviceable ones are easily found at swap meets. The problem is they are not easily replaced as you have to de-swage the drum from the spindle mounting and re-swage and if not done by someone who knows what they are doing and have the proper holding fixtures the drum and hub will be destroyed.

If this occurs on a car with the original steel drums it is prudent to do the job right and have a set of cast iron drums installed with the replacement hub and spindle by someone who is capable, such as Randy Gross.

I had a spun inner race on the Vic a number of years ago. The wheels would wobble when I turned while slowing or when applying the brakes. I figured it was time for new spindles balls and king pins. When the job was complete the problem was still there. I then discovered the spun race. I obtained a serviceable spindle shaft and since I have cast iron drums on the car I did the re-swage myself as I know how and know where the tooling is.

However I failed to turn the drum and when I would apply the brakes that one wheel would pulsate. I had to then turn the drum. Turning of the drums is important when installing cast iron drums to align the concentricity of both drum and spindle hub.

There is also a repair around for spun spindles. It is a repair sleeve that presses on over the shaft once it has been turned down to accept the sleeve. The sleeve is expensive and so is the machining and it is not cost affective. Plenty of original spindle hubs are still around at swap meets for a few bucks.

Also be very careful if you have to install reproduction grease seals that fit over the inner race. The first repos available about 10 years ago were made in India and everything about them was wrong. All the dimensions were incorrect and they jammed the inner bearing. Walt Bratton tried to salvage his stock by having some of the dimensions machined. However, they were still wrong and he scrapped the lot and found someone to make them from the Ford drawing. I would trust his stock, but there are suppliers around still selling the ones made in India. You can leave them off if you need replacement and there will be no adverse affects. I left mine off for a year until I found some at swap meets. You can tell the originals as they will have a series of circular grooves around the outside diameter. The repos are smooth.

Tom Endy

Correction to the first line in the last paragraph, twelfth word in. The word should be slinger, not seal.
 
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ANTONIODELVAL said:
In my Ford Model A, the inner bearing rotates on the spindle, it has no clearance, but it is not fixed and can be rotated. Is that correct or should I fix the inner bearing with loctite?
I mean the inner race turns on the front spindle.
Thank you.
Click to expand...

Thats normal :; Its not a pressed fit..

Clean and Repack everything with a good quality bearing grease and reassemble..

Dont forget to ask us how to tighten the spindle nut:eek:
 
FWIW:

After reading long and rather bloody discussions years ago, (LOL), and after calling Timken years ago about this Model A inner front wheel bearing fit on the front wheel spindle, and the inner front wheel bearing race, the Timken technician confirmed that this fit should be an "interference" fit; i.e. not at all loose; but, not too tight.

"Interference", even in Model A conversations, can no doubt have many different interpretations.
 
Of course lots of advice, but no one asks the correct first question.

Have you measured the spindle where the bearing placed? It is not uncommon for the bottom of the spindle to have worn some and you need to know if that is your problem.

Use either a dial caliper or micrometer (I use micrometers anymore) to check at several places around the spindle. Do not be surprised if it is smaller top to bottom then side to side. Then the question is how much smaller? I do not know the 'bad' point, I just know I have a pile of spindles I will not used because they are too worn for me. I consider more then a couple thou to be too much, but I find my standards sometimes are higher then others.

Keep in mind if worn too much that means the inner bearing will be up higher from the center line then the outer.
 
I would think that if Ford intended a interference fit(bearing cone not able to spin) there would be a KRW tool to remove it without damage for cleaning/repacking
 
Tom Endy,
THANKS for taking the time to do post #21, it's worth reading AGAIN.
And REMEMBER, if you adjust front wheel bearings with a little "SLOP", how in hell can you set your TOE-IN properly?
Bill Repetition
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Tom Endy,
THANKS for taking the time to do post #21, it's worth reading AGAIN.
And REMEMBER, if you adjust front wheel bearings with a little "SLOP", how in hell can you set your TOE-IN properly?
Bill Repetition
Click to expand...

Other than losing a wheel,
You cant,,, but if you use a broom stick, shower rod, or duby toe guage it does not much matter at that point...
Technology has evolved big time for accuracy
 
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It should move, it should be a slip fit, the idea is the race creeps in use so all the wear is not concentrated in one spot

Ditto
 
katy said:
It should move, it should be a slip fit, the idea is the race creeps in use so all the wear is not concentrated in one spot

Ditto
Click to expand...


Sorry, I am thinking about this.

I really wonder about movement here and this idea of wear only in one spot.

First off wear where? On the bearing? It is very hard and it is not going to wear! Spindle, well yes it will wear, on the bottom cause that is where the force is all the time. Car is being pulled down against the bottom of the bearing. So how then is having a hardened race spinning on a softer forged steel going to move the wear around?

Does not make sense.

My guess is you have a slip fit because of service. It needs to come off to do work and by the nature of very thick race portion it does not need to be in tight like the other side of the bearing that is press fit into the hub.
 
Remember the inner
bearing bottoms out against the spindle, and when the outer bearing is installed and pre-load of the bearing set by the spindle nut it is pressing the bearing slightly inward, and should be snug. Typically you don't want the inner race of the bearing to spin on the spindle. It should be measured and if there is more than a thousandth or two the spindle should be replaced as Tom Endy said. I'm picky.. and have spindle stock.. so if they rotate too freely I replace the spindle. Just that simple. If I were to fix a current spindle my option would be to use the locktite.

Of course as Tom indicated the common problem of races spinning in the hubs should be checked and addressed as necessary. It is a VERY common thing. Do a search on the barn for fixes and suggestions on it. Of course finding a good used hub is at the top of the list.

Best of luck!
Larry Shepard
 
Aunt Jemima Inc. has a few logical answers ...... answers for making pancakes.

Timkin technicians have a few logical answers for all Model A bearings and races.

Why fear .......... and not call?

Timken technicians probable have a few answers for bearings, making pancakes, and making pancake syrup.
 
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